Plaster Wall Patch‏

Q: I'm renting a house where the previous tenants had an entertainment center bolted to plaster walls. When we removed the piece of furniture we discovered that they were secured by nickel-sized butterfly hook bolts. They left substantial holes in the wall that needed repairing.

We used wall patching (plaster sheets that you wet and apply, sand when dry). Unfortunately they are extremely noticeable because it's another layer on top of the wall.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how we can make it more flush and less noticeable? I realize it'll never be perfect, but the condition it's in now concerns me.

A: You should be able to make it "perfect". You need to fill the hole, rather than cover it, with anyone of the plaster/drywall fillers such as DAP.

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Tearing Down Plaster Walls

Q: I have been thinking of how nice it would look to tear down the wall between the kitchen and dining room and opening up that area. I just thought it would look really nice and I could put a sort of a bar right by the stove going into the dining room. I haven't given it a lot of thought because I wasn't sure how hard it would be or how much money it would cost. But I just watched an episode of Flip this house and they did exactly what I have thought of doing. And it looked great. I have never tore down plaster walls. But I have tore down sheetrock walls and built little niches in the walls and made them kind of like a museum to show off pieces of art. But I think plaster walls would be a lot harder to tear down than sheetrock is. What do you all think?

A: There are a lot of items to consider before you start tearing down walls. I suggest you follow the link.

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Chimney Repair

Q: I have a 1888 house that has a brick chimney. the previous owner had it "repaired" by putting a coat of stucco on top (without any metal lathe) a couple of years later, it is just chipping and falling off.

This is not a working fireplace. It is only used to vent my oil burner. So here's my question could i take down 3/4 of the top of the chimney and then install a chimney pot over the vent liner?

I'm unsure as to how tall the vent has to be, but for a non-used chimney, it seems a bit overkill to re-build a giant chimney to vent an oil burner.

A: There is a minimum height for furnace flues, I believe in your area it is 5', but please check with your building department. It is also relative to the position of the peak. It avoids getting a back draft. Providing you have enough height you can cut back the chimney. You also might want to consider a simple fix. Build a plywood box around the chimney, you can build it on the ground and slide it over the top or build it in sections and fasten it together on the roof. Place a 1 x 4 trim on the outside edge and use the 1 x 4 to make an X - all of this is only aesthetic, and paint with a quality exterior primer then paint. It is less expensive than hiring a mason and will hide the unsightly chimney.

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Sewer Gas Odor

Q: This morning we noticed a strong sewer smell outside our house and in the kitchen. All the plumbing is brand new as of three months ago the smell was not in the area of the septic system. What areas should I check first?

A: I would contact the plumber that did the installation 3 months ago. Could be a few things, but my first thought is a broken underground pipe.

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Paintbrush Or Roller

Q: I've been told I should use a brush to apply the Benjamin Moore siding and deck stain to my cedar fence because you use less paint and somehow it's better for the fence.

A: The motion of the brush usually forces the paint/stain into the pores and cracks of the wood better than a roller, which has a tendency to have the paint, sit on top of the pores and cracks. However, in my experience you use more paint with a brush (usually because you put the paint on thicker) than with a roller.

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Shower Diverter Problem

Q: When I pull up the knob to go from the faucet in the tub to have the shower come on the water doesn't completely shut off from the faucet. Is this something that is easy to fix or would it involve taking the tile off the wall to fix?

A: The easiest way to repair this problem is to replace the spout with a new one with a built in diverter. They are available at any of the Big Box stores. The spout screws on to a pipe, a pipe wrench or large pliers should release it - turn counterclockwise. Add Teflon tape to the joint when you put it back together. No tile needs to be removed.

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Paint Overspray On Shingles‏

Q: My first attempt with an airless sprayer for siding resulted in a little overspray of the oil-based primer (Sherwin-Williams) on the shingles. I assume that weathering will eventually remove most of it. Is there another way to speed the process? I tried plain power washing without success. Can garage-floor cleaner (or any TSP based cleaner) be used with pressure washing?

A: I will assume you are talking about asphalt shingles. The asphalt is oil based as is the paint, and because of that it is unlikely that any cleaner will remove the paint without damaging the shingles. Be careful with the pressure washer on the shingles, the small stone particles on the shingles are important, the pressure wash can easily remove them.

Q: I agree about there not being a simple solvent to dissolve the paint without attacking the shingle (I'm a retired chemist).

I did consider that a quick hit with a towel dampened, but not soaking with VM&P naphtha might get the surface paint off before attacking the shingle. However, the risk of that approach is that it might cause a smear of the paint, which would probably look worse than the fine speckles from the spray.

My other thought was more along the lines of something that would denature the paint (such as TSP) or cover it up. The shingles are black. Is there an asphalt-based paint I could spray? In other words, something like a thinned version of roofing caulk?

The affected area is not large. I had plastic sheeting about 18 to 24 inches up from the eaves. One can see the outline of the tape that was used to keep the plastic from blowing about and about one shingle width above that. A suitable flat black paint would help blend the white primer with the black shingles. Worst case, I might use flat black Rustoleum, but a purpose-made paint would be better.

A: With respect to painting the shingles, my concern would be that black comes in many shades and gloss factors and that if you don't get the black right, it may look worse than the current situation.

I did consider the possibility of using a liquid black roof seal (available at the big box home improvement centers) and thinning it down. No damage to the shingles, it is only the match that would be of concern.

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Concrete Slab Under Stove

Q: Today I ripped out all the tiles in my apartment's kitchen in preparation for installing my laminate floor. They came out easily, but under the stove I discovered I don't have a floor. Instead, I have a thick slab of concrete or cement board, apparently resting directly on the joists and sticking up about 3/4" above the planks of the floor around it.

Maybe stoves in 1901 (when this building was built) sent so much heat toward the floor that this was thought desirable, but it certainly isn't needed today, and I'm not sure what to do now. The goal was to add another electrical circuit, lay down a laminate floor in a few hours, buy a new stove, and finally be done with this unending renovation. With a crowbar or come-along I could probably get this thing up, but then I'd have bare joists and have to install a wood floor just to cover it up with the laminate floor, (plus I'd have a slab of concrete a yard square to carry down four flights of stairs). Or I could put the laminate floor on top of the slab and slice off the top layer of laminate to trim the "riser" part of the slab. This would leave the stove up in the air an inch or so, as it was before, and it would look OK, but it would limit a future owner's ability to move the stove. Any ideas?

A: Consider, that the slab might be asbestos! It was common to use asbestos to insulate against potential fire hazards, so you have to be careful about breaking it up.

I would lay the laminate on top of the slab and use a laminate stair nose molding, if the size is right or another molding to hide the edge.

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Caulk Between Window Sill And Masonry Ledge‏

Q: I have read two, opposite opinions about whether one should caulk between a windowsill and a masonry ledge under it. It is a 60-year-old brick and block house, and the window sills do not reach to the outside surface of the brick. Instead, there is a masonry ledge beneath the sill that goes past the brick. The ledge is slanted for
drainage.

One opinion I have read says not to caulk the joint to allow drainage. The other opinion, of course, says to caulk the joint.

Can any members with experience in renovation comment on this question?

BTW, most of the sills are in good shape and are made of cedar. Rot on some of the sills has been removed and repaired by splicing in solid PVC. In those cases, only the PVC is in contact with the ledges.

A: You do not want to caulk that joint, it is there to provide drainage to the outside of the window. If you caulk you will end up with water on the inside wall and floor.

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Exposing A Brick Wall In Kitchen‏

Q: I'm pretty new to home improvement so any advice would be welcome! We just bought a first floor apt in a 101 year old building in Brooklyn. One side of our kitchen has a brick wall which is covered with a layer of sheetrock and a layer of linoleum. It is ugly and we'd like to expose the brick. Given that the building is 101 years old--and the fact that ants seem to be coming through the bricks and through a crack in the sheetrock/lino layer--I wonder how much work we'd have to do to the brick so it wouldn't be crumbling into our food.

A: If it is an outside wall, then you are going to have to check the mortar between the bricks and possibly re-point. I would also suggest from a heating/ac standpoint that you want to put some sort of wall between the outside brick wall and the inside so that you can provide some insulation factor.

You will need to spray to remove the ants or use ant traps after you figure
out how they are getting in and seal accordingly.

You can paint brick with an insulating material, once you have fixed any
problems with the mortar and the bricks.

Pointing and replacing bricks can be a major exercise!

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Screwing Into Plaster Walls

Q: I need to put some screws into a wallpaper covered plaster wall. Anything I should know before just doing it? Nothing weight-bearing. Holding up some vertical boards with L brackets/corner braces.

A: You have to use anchors of some kind. If there is truly no weight you can use the plastic anchors that expand as you drive the screw into them. Drill a hole first. If there is some weight you should consider using the toggle style that grip from behind by expanding when a bolt is threaded into them.

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Bathroom Leak‏

Q: We had the master bathroom remodeled. This included a new toilet, raising the vanity, putting in a tile walk-in shower, and a new tile floor. After they were done and we started using everything we noticed water drops on the dining room table in the dining room on the 1st floor under the master bathroom. The contractor came back and said that there were some cracks in the grout on the floor of the shower and he would caulk them and let it dry for 2 days and everything would be OK. I am waiting for it to dry. After the ceiling has become saturated, will it stay up and is there any question of mold?

A: First, there should not have been any water leakage even if there was no grout in the floor tiles. The floor tiles are basically for decorative purpose, not to stop water from going to the floor below. By code there must be some sort of pan installed on any shower floor. This could be a rubber membrane or a fiberglass base, and it is installed to ensure that no water goes through the floor. So I would ask; Did your contractor have a building permit?

I think you are going to have to have a long talk with the contractor, there must be a water proof membrane on the floor, or you are going to have leaks forever, grout will continue to crack as temperature changes and people walk in and out of the shower. The ceiling needs to be repaired properly, by removing the damaged section of drywall and replacing it. You will have mold growth if you leave it as is.

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How to Repair Baseball-Sized Hole in Drywall

Q: Someone threw something and it poked a hole right through the drywall. It's about baseball-sized, and I'm wondering what the best repair method is going to be. I want something that looks decent, since we're just renting this place.

My wife bought this wire mesh patch-thing that has instructions and all that for fixing it. Is that a good way to go?

A: The mesh works, but it requires practice, to get a seamless finish. I would suspect that the hole has pushed the drywall in, rather than having an open hole. There should be enough meat of drywall to do a repair using spackling compound and then a cover layer of drywall joint compound. If necessary fill the hole with the spackle using multiple layers, as an example the first amount may only reduce the hole by a 1/2" once that is dry apply some more and it will fill in another 1/2" to 1" do this until it is filled, sand to remove any spots that are higher than the drywall. Then using drywall compound joint filler, put a covering layer over the spackle, and feather over the drywall, sand and if necessary apply another coat until smooth.

The problem with the mesh is that it has to be higher than the drywall and requires that you feather it out at least 12" to create a smooth finish, which is not easy if you haven't done it before.

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Installing Interior Doors‏

Q: We have an old house that has dormers in the attic. We've just recently finished making these dormers into actual bedrooms for the two teens. However, there are eaves which we intend to make into closets. The "door" openings were already there and can't be made into a normal height. We know nothing about doors so we got a carpenter in to estimate and he said to cut normal interior doors to fit properly will be in the neighborhood of $200 per door.

That's seems ridiculously steep to me. Any experience with this stuff? This carpenter told us that you can't "just buy an interior door and cut it any size you want". Why not?

A: Interior doors are hollow and only have an 1.5" to 3" piece of solid wood at the top and bottom. $200 sounds high to me, just to cut the door. If the $200 includes the door, building a doorframe, moldings and trim, and supplying the door hardware (hinges), including a reasonable quality door knob, then it is a fair price.

A hollow door can be cut and a new piece of wood inserted into the top hollow.

As an alternative you might consider using bi-fold doors that come in shorter heights and a variety of widths.

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Duct Cleaning

Q: I recently moved to an older ranch on a slab...not used to not having a basement where all the mechanical guts of the house are easily accessible! There is major road construction going on behind the house. I realized that the orange dust that I kept finding around the vents is residue from the road construction....(clay soil!)...so we have been keeping the windows closed and the AC on. After vacuuming the vents, I think I really need to have them cleaned professionally. Any suggestions on what I should look for in a service? Since we're on a slab, I believe all the duct work is under the floors and in the walls, right? Do they just suck out the vents or do they tap into the ductwork? There's a company that has a special advertised for $7.95 per vent....is that reasonable? Or am I ok with just vacuuming out the vents....I've heard pros and cons on a lot of the duct cleaning services

A: You want someone reputable - that means that they have a facility (do not work from home), are listed in the yellow pages of your phone book and are members of the BBB or local chamber of commerce. They will use vacuums to such out the dust, but they have a lot more vacuum than an ordinary industrial vac, they do not drill holes in the ducts.

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Corriding Brass‏

Q: About six years ago I have my doorbell chimes plated in brass. Although no one ever touches them, they appear to be corroding, or at least the coloring deteriorating. They are darker in splotches, the tiny dark lines or spots interspersed with the shiny brass. All areas are still relatively smooth to the touch. I remember the guy said that they coated them with something to preserve them. I was thinking about brass plating some other things but this does not exactly encourage me, as I don't think that six years is much for the price. Did I choose the wrong company or is this just to be expected?

A: It is to be expected, he coated the brass with a varnish that prevents the air from reaching it and hence prevents oxidization. Over time, weather (sun, wind, rain, etc.) and touching it wears the varnish off. If you use a brass polish and can bring the color back, recoat it with a varnish, it is best to dip it, rather than paint it. Do it a couple of times allowing at least 24 hours between dips.

The thickness of the brass is also relative. Brass plating can be micro thin or thicker all depending on how much you paid. Again as the brass layer wears off, you will have the cast show through.

Q: Is polyurethane as good as a varnish?

A: Varnish is much more durable than any of the urethane products, especially much better outside. As an example, wood boats use varnish, not urethane. Varnish stands up to UV much better than urethane, primarily because urethane is a plastic and varnish is the sap of a tree. If it is indoors, then polyurethane will work just fine.

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Redoing Floor On Front Porch‏

Q. I want to start the project of redoing the front porch floor, it was built in 1900, that is old and some boards are broken. Any Advice?

A. You should remove all the end floorboards and check the floor joists for rot, before replacing the floor. You may have a problem patching as the slats currently in place are probably thicker than new lumber, you may have to use a shim board on the joists to raise the slats so that they are all at the same level. Use galvanized screws or nails if you are using regular lumber. If using pressure treated lumber you need to copper coated or stainless steel fasteners. Paint the underside and edges of the slats before installing to protect them from the elements.

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Question About A Window Frame‏

Q: I have one of the new energy saving windows vinyl. And this room is un even. I was cleaning the glass and I pulled it back in. I can push one the one side and it pops out. I try to slam it back in but same thing happens. And this long whit plastic fell out I guess it was to fill the gap or hide the gap between the frame and window. I have that in. But my question is can I use calking to fill the wood frame and the window?

A: Yes, you can use caulking - make sure you choose a caulking that will adhere to both wood and vinyl.

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Rust In Tub‏

Q. What is the best way to remove rust from the bottom of a fiberglass tub? The surface is textured, so scrubbing it would be difficult.

A. Try a product called "The Works" its available at Target and I think Wal-Mart. You can also try 3 parts bleach to 1 part water.

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Walkway Recommendations‏

Q. There's a walkway in my back yard, which goes from the patio to the vegetable garden. It's made of cement pavers, about 18 inches wide and maybe 36 inches long. It makes for a narrow walkway. Plus it's too close to the garage, maybe 18 to 20 inches away from the wall, so when it rains, the water pours down on the walkway, and anyone using it. It also tends to be very slippery with snow and ice in the winter. I want to remove the pavers, relocate the walkway and use something else, hopefully something less slippery. My dilemma is that I can't think of something to replace it.

A. There are a couple of things that you can do:

1. Pour a concrete walkway and texture the surface.

2. Use flagstones, a path rather than a total walkway.

3. Use pavers that are textured.

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Grout Between Porcelain Tiles‏

A. We had our bathroom done this spring in porcelain tiles with a brownish color grout in between the tiles. Recently my husband noticed that in a couple of places the grout is chipping and little bits of it are coming up. Should we have sealed it with something? The people who did this job for us didn't tell us to do anything to it. I wash it with vinegar and water and frankly, don't scrub it much at all. Should I be concerned about this flaking?

Q. You should be concerned about the flaking. Although sealing the grout will help keep it clean, stop it from turning color and free from mildew and mold it has nothing to do with flaking. Flaking is usually a result of one of three things:

The first is that the grout mixture was not mixed thoroughly and with enough water. The second is that the edges of the tiles were dirty when the grout was installed. Grout won't bind to dirt. The third is that the installer added grout on top of grout that had already begun to cure. Grout will not adhere properly to grout. If he did this, then it is the top layer that is probably flaking off.

Other than replacing the grout, which is a major exercise, I really don't have any suggestions for a fix. I would monitor the grout regularly, if pieces are chipping out, the holes should be immediately filled with a bathtub caulking to stop water from getting in behind the tiles. If it all starts to flake, then it will have to be replaced.

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Laminate Flooring Questions

Q. A couple of laminate flooring questions.

1. I installed laminate in our living room and since then the stick-on tiles in the dining room are peeling up on the edges. I've decided to put down laminate floor in that room as well. I have a reducer molding between the living room and dining room. I'm going to have to replace it with a T molding and will have to remove it before starting the dining room for spacing. How do I remove it? Jig saw?

2. I'm also installing laminate in our master bathroom. Is it necessary to glue the glueless click planks because of moisture?

A. 1. Without actually seeing the installation a saber saw is probably your best bet. Although a circular saw set at the right height is easier to maintain a straight line.

2. DO NOT glue the glueless planks - they need freedom to expand and contract. Glue them and you will have no end of buckling problems. I am not sure I understand the part about "moisture" in the master bedroom. If you have a moisture problem in your home, you should fix the problem rather than trying to remodel around the problem.

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Toilet Leak

Q. When my toilet started doing a slow leak, I replaced the bulb but it is still leaking very slowly. When I press down on the bulb it does not seem to be leaking at all. I suspect that I will have to replace whatever is under the bulb. Is this correct and should I replace anything else while I'm at it?

A. It is either the float valve or the flapper valve. I recommend you replace both.

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Stained Bathtub

Q. I have a really old tub that is stained and want to find out how to clean it.

I have scrubbed with chemicals and abrasives and bleached. I’ve even soaked in straight bleach.

Is there anything I can try? It’s a plastic type tub, not ceramic.

A. Plastic tubs have a very thin nonporous surface that in theory is stain proof (the same applies to porcelain). Once you apply abrasives and scouring pads you remove the protective layer and the stains permeate the plastic. Once that happens there is not much you can do to remove the stain - it would be like trying to remove stain from wood, you can't, all you can do is sand away the layer that is stained.

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Painting With Urethane

Tip: To save cleaning brushes in between coats of urethane place the brushes in freezer bags, seal and freeze.

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Cracks In Newly Painted / Patched Walls?‏

Q. Last June, we patched and painted every crack in the walls of our 100yr old apt.

Now I have two questions:

1. There are tiny, almost feathery looking cracks appearing on several of the walls. They are very shallow and fairly uniform (i.e. everywhere). What might have caused this and is there any cure?

2. Several large cracks have appeared on the walls that don't have the problem I listed above. I assume if we patch and paint again we'll have the same problem. Any ideas on how to get a longer lasting solutions?

A. The feathery looking cracks sound like a paint compatibility problem - undercoat/primer versus finished coat - from your description it sounds as if the paint is cracking not the wall.

Large cracks sounds like a settling problem - foundation problems in a 100 year old apt. The answer to your question is - YES , if you patch and paint you will most likely have the problem repeat itself.

Q. If I've got a paint compatibility problem (the feathery cracks), what do I do to fix it? Paint again?

Also, what, other than patching and painting the walls with the big cracks, can I do? Does skim coating take care of this? Other ideas?

A. It may be possible to correct cracking if it is confined to small areas by removing the loose or flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding to feather the edges, priming any bare spots and repainting.

If the cracking involves large areas or the entire surface, remove all of the paint by scraping, sanding and/or use of a heat gun or power washer.

Then, prime with a quality primer and repaint with a quality latex house paint.

I would also recommend that you go talk to a paint expert - Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams paint store - not a big box like Home Depot or Lowes and ask for their advise.

I am sorry to say that with the big cracks, you have to fix the problem, and if it is the foundation it is a major exercise.

A building only has to shift 1/32 of an inch to produce cracks. The only way to "possibly" stop the appearance of the cracking would be to put a layer of thin drywall over the wall. Drywall will stand-up better to shifting than plaster.

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Hot Room

Q. I have one room in the house that is hotter than the rest of the house. The house is a two-story wood frame colonial. The room in question is a 2nd floor bedroom. I have baseboard radiators with an oil-heat boiler.

A. Hot air rises and if this room happens to be at the top of a stairway you are getting all of the heat from the rest of the home flowing into it. A southern exposure could also have a radiant heat effect on that room.

Try turning off that baseboard radiator, shutting that room's door and closing window blinds and see if makes a difference.

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Sazall versus French Doors‏

Q. Now that the floor tile is installed the wooden French doors will not close due to the height of the tile. Can I use a Sazall to cut off the
bottom of the doors without breaking the glass windows? Thanks for any suggestions.

A. I believe you mean Sawzall, which is a trade name for a reciprocating saw made by the Milwaukee Electric Tool Company.

Reciprocating saws are designed for making quick, rough cuts, through a variety of wood, metal and plastic, dependent on the blade you have chosen. Blades are also available for pruning trees and shrubs.

You do not want to use a reciprocating saw for finished woodworking. To trim the bottom of your French doors I suggest you use a block plane, belt sander or circular saw with at minimum a 40 tooth carbide tipped blade.

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Hardwood Floor Project

Q. I'm researching phase of a hardwood floor project. Some background, this is my first time laying hardwood flooring and I have access to tons or scrap pieces of random lengths from 6 inches to 32 inches of solid kiln dried .75 inch hardwood (cherry, oak, and hickory) the width is between 2.25 and 4 inches.

My plan is to purchase a router, table and tongue and groove bits and manufacturer my own product.

Here are some questions:

What is the min length of material I should use for a floor?
Is there a min and max width I should use?
What are some of the pitfalls of going this route?

For the cost of surfacing one room with a cheap laminate I can do basically my whole house so I'm pretty set on doing this, unless there is some big red flag out there.

Thanks for your time and input.

A. I think it is a great concept. Considering the varieties of woods you have available you might want to consider some different patterns:

Tips:

Make sure the lumber is in the room that you plan on flooring, to allow it to acclimatize at least 72 hours.

Unless you are using a diagonal pattern, and some of the patterns above will utilize a lot of smaller pieces, in a straight layout, an 18" piece is really the smallest you want to work with. You don't want joints in parallel rows to be within 6" and joints should not line up for 4 rows minimum.

You will need to mill one side smooth (bottom) in order to use a router table.

If these are unfinished, and you are going to sand flat, make sure that the tongue and groove are cut from the same side and when laid, otherwise your floor will not sit tight to the sub-floor. Try to do all your routing of tongues, then do grooves. Duplicating the set-up exactly will be tricky.

You will also have to decide whether you will tongue and groove the ends.

There is no real difference in widths and you can mix and match in rows. I wouldn't use less than a 2 3/4" width.

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Tankless Water Heaters

Q. Do you have a tankless water heater? What do you think of its performance? I am purchasing a condo with a 10 year old water heater, which I will have to replace some day, so I want to know about the tankless models. I am, at least for now, alone, so I don't need a lot of water at one time. On the Home Depot web site, they tell you how many gallons per minute they can put out, but how do I know how many I need?

A. Tankless water heaters are great - very efficient from an energy standpoint - possible problem is that they consume large amounts of electrical power for short periods of time. A house unit may require a 60 amp 240 VAC circuit, it is like having a second range. You need an incoming electrical service that can handle the extra load. I would say in a condo, minimum 150 Amps service - 200 would be better. Another problem can be, the wiring to a tankless heater is much larger than to a tank - you will need to run a new cable - if the building is concrete this could be a problem.

As far as sizing a unit, most manufactures have sizing calculators for their units based on number of showers, etc. If you follow the links on the link page, I am sure you will find the calculations you are looking for.

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Expired Silicone Caulking

Q. Yesterday I visited my brother-in-law's house where he asked me about a silicone problem he's having. He used an expired tube (expired 3 months ago) of GE Kitchen and Bath Silicone to the corners of his stairs. It was applied two weeks ago and has not cured. He said it didn't have the usual vinegar smell when applying it. The tube hadn't been opened before this application.

Is silicone this sensitive to its expiry date? Would the "no vinegar smell" have more to do with age or bad silicone?

Anyway, is there a bonding agent that could be applied by chance? With no better alternative, what's the best method to remove silicone?

A. Most chemicals have a limited package life because they are not packed in a vacuum, so some air does remain in the package.

I am not aware of any bonding agent. Razor blade knife, placed under the edge should remove the silicone relatively easily.

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Kitchen Remodel Design

Q. I am ready to do a kitchen remodel. I've talked to 2 cabinet suppliers. Both say that they're designers but for some reason I seem to need more direction. Neither of them have come up with a plan that WOWs me, or that I feel comfortable with moving forward on.

I've gone to Home Depot and spoken a little bit with them, but I've also seen on the Internet where other kitchen remodelers say NOT to go there or to another place like that.

I have some definite ideas on what I want, but I am very unclear about many other things.

We don't want to "DIY" the entire kitchen, but there are some things that we're willing to do ourselves, such as taking out the existing cabinets because hubby wants to put some of them up in his shop.

Thanks in advance for any advice or direction you could give me.

A. The problem with the big box retailers is that when it comes to the kitchen and bathroom design departments the experience of any specific associate can vary from a day to 10 or more years and it is impossible to actually look at the work that a specific designer has actually done. So while some people will have great stories to tell about their kitchens purchased from a big box retailer, there are others who will not be so happy.

I have a couple of suggestions for your consideration.

Invest a bit of the kitchen remodel funds in some design software that you can use yourself, the new programs are very easy and allow you to see in 3D what the kitchen would look like from different views before you make any investment.

Follow the link to learn more about the different software packages.

Work with an independent kitchen remodel company that lives or dies on the work that they do. Check out their previous work and talk to some of their customers.

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Melting Ice

Q. What is the best product for melting ice, that won’t damage concrete or vegetation?

A. There is no perfect product for melting ice. However, the best product that does the least amount of damage to concrete and vegetation is magnesium chloride.

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Hydroponic Indoor Gardening

Q. I would like to plant some herbs and vegetables indoors, so that I can have fresh product during the winter.

I don’t have a lot of room and even less knowledge. Is there something simple that would allow me to do this?

A. You are in luck. There is a company that provides indoor hydroponic growing of herbs, vegetables and even tomatoes – no soil. The growing system is attractive and can sit on any counter and because there is no soil you don’t have to worry about bugs!

Follow the link for further information.

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Ceiling Joists Bearing Weight‏

Q. I am planning on installing drywall to my garage ceiling, to give it a more finished look. I am concerned about the load on the joists since there are only 2x4's from one side of the garage to the other 20' total length, supported in the center by another 2x4 attached to the gable. Additionally the joists are spaced every 32". I suppose the 2x4 are there only for lateral support and not meant to support a load. Other houses in my neighborhood have installed drywall after initial construction, and were built is the same way as my garage.

I am planning on installing more 2x4's to make it 16" on center, and install 4 pieces of 4x8 1/4" plywood on top of the rafter for light storage and than install thin drywall 3/8" I think. Also the garage dimensions are 20x20.

That's the scenario, my question is, is there a formula that I can use to find out how much of a load these 2x4 joists can support safely?

Would adding additional 2x4's to the existing 2x4 joist's work? Make it two or three 2x4's wide.

Also I can't seem to find good Douglas Fir 2x4 that are 20' in length, if I added a 16' length and a 8' length for a total of 20' would that still add support even though it isn't one solid board?

A. Adding a second 2 x 4 that does not extend the full length does little if anything to add load ability.

What I would suggest is add a double 2 x 4 sandwiching a piece of 1/2" plywood, joint staggered as the joist in between to make your 16" centers.

Use construction adhesive and nails when making the sandwich. 3.5" nails driven in on an angle, a 5 pattern (dots on a dice), construction adhesive on both sides of the plywood.

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Preventing Power Failure

Q. I’m one of the unlucky families in Oklahoma that lost power for 4 days, from the winter storms. How difficult is it to install a standby generator?

A. Standby generators are not difficult to install, but the size and fuel of the generator you require and the installation has to be thought out. If you are considering a permanent installation there are basically 3 sizes of generators for residential applications – 10, 15 and 25 kilowatt – 3 fuels, gas, liquid propane (LP) and diesel.

To learn more about sizing, fuel and installation follow the link.

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Broken Corners On An Old Vinyl Floor

Q. We have an apartment with vinyl floor tiles in the kitchen and hallway. For the most part they are stuck to the floor very well. It's just very dark and has probably been there since the 70's. Since it seems to be pretty secured down, for time and expense sake, I'd like to just go over it with newer vinyl squares. However, there are a few corners that have been broken off. I'm afraid the new tile will fall into those little holes and run the risk of breaking later as well. Is there a filler that you would recommend? I've always used a floor adhesive, even with the self stick tiles, but would the adhesive work to fill those areas so they're solid? Thanks for any advice.

A. You are correct that you must fill in the areas that are not level, as the new tiles will eventually try to fill the void.

Do not use adhesive as filler. Depending on what the sub-floor is, you can use a self-leveling concrete repair, spackling compound, or wood filler. Make sure that the compound you use is completely set, before laying the tiles - the compound will not set underneath tiles.

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Doing a bathroom remodel....slowly?

Q. After the holidays, we'd like to remodel our 2nd floor bathroom. It's quite small, so this shouldn't be TOO terribly expensive.

However, all of our previous "big changes" have been handled by contractors. We're looking at doing this one ourselves, mostly because the "big money" has run out and now we'll just be able to budget a few hundred dollars per month, at best, towards home projects.

We don't need to make any "big changes" that would involve plumbing moves. The toilet, tub, and the sink won't be moving anywhere.

So, I was thinking I could do this "one piece at a time" replace the toilet one month, maybe alter the location / wiring of the light fixture above the sink the next month, redo the flooring another month, etc.

The tub will NOT be replaced. It's a claw-foot tub, but somewhere along the line, some crazy person decided to "box it in" with plywood and then put these teeny-tiny tiles all over the wood.

I was just wondering what would be the most logical order to do this stuff in? (Or if it even matters?)

I suspect that I may find a surprise or two under the flooring, as there is some sort of detectable "hole" or depression in at least one spot. They've got vinyl placed over that. But none of the fixtures seems to have unstable flooring underneath it, so I'm thinking there might be a bit of subflooring work that needs to be done, but hopefully nothing too scary.

I thought I'd start with the flooring, but then the thought crossed my mind that maybe a "top down" approach would be better (start with the high work and work my way down to the low stuff). Not sure. I'm very inexperienced in this sort of thing. I would obviously be hiring an electrician for the electrical move. But I'm thinking I can probably replace the toilet, the sink, and the cabinets all myself (given time and patience).

A. It is difficult to do a bathroom remodel in bits and pieces primarily because things inter-relate to one another.

You really can't do the floor while the vanity and toilet are in place. You can't do the vanity, if the floor needs work. You can't tile walls unless you are not planning on replacing the faucets, if you are, the faucets have to come first, that means removing the wall. You can't change the sink, until you take care of the vanity.

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Cost And Space Efficient Sound Insulation For Wall‏s

Q. I've read the stuff about having to make a separated wall but I just want to add a thin layer of material and then drywall to add some sound insulation from the adjoining semi-detached house. The choices I'm considering are:
- carpet
- foam carpet under padding
- cork panels
- mass load vinyl (expensive)
any thoughts on which would work best?

A. To create soundproofing you need to eliminate the transmission of the sound, which happens through solid materials such as wall studs, rafters, ceiling and floor joists.

Carpet with a loose pile will provide some soundproofing on the surfaces that it is in contact with.

Foam carpet under pad does not have enough air space in between the cells to provide much soundproofing.

Cork panels - it depends on the backing - I would use cork that is
designed for under hardwood or laminate flooring for condos - it is designed
to deaden the sound - it comes in rolls and would have to be glued
on. - My recommendation!

Mass load vinyl - no experience in its sound deadening qualities.

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Laminate Flooring on walls?

Q. Would it be possible... or practical... or cost effective to use laminate wood flooring on a bathroom wall? There is no tub or shower, so moisture shouldn't be an issue. I'm planning to use tile on the floors, but I found some inexpensive interlocking bamboo laminate flooring that I think would look nice to use half way up the walls to go with my Asian theme. Since these are usually used as "floating" floors, what would be the best way of attaching it to the wall? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed.

A. Technically there is no reason why you cannot use laminate flooring on a wall. I would use some construction adhesive. I would also use an overlapping molding to finish the top and put the baseboard in front of the planks rather than butting the planks to the top of the baseboard. Lay a bead of caulking on the floor to allow the planks to expand and contract.

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Plumbing Vents

Q. I'm doing the rough in for my bathroom and have a question on venting.

Here is the layout: It is a two story building and the residence is at 2nd floor. The main vent extends from the roof straight down to the building's sewer. There is a horizontal T off of that 4 inch schedule 40 which connects the residence to the sewer. I've T'd the horizontal pipe to extend to the new bathroom, first bathtub, then toilet, then shower.

From the main vent the bathtub is 12 feet the toilet is 20 feet and the shower is 25 feet away.

The pipes from the main vent are 4" to the 2" connecting the tube, a 4" to the toilet and 2" connecting to the shower.

Is that too far from the main vent?

A. Yes! Anytime you are 6' or more from the vent stack you must re-vent back to the vent stack. Failure to either re-vent or mechanical vent will result in the fixture's trap to be sucked dry and of course that leads to sewer gases entering your home.

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Toilet Drain Flange Extender

Q. I know I need to redo the whole floor but don't have the means to do so right now. But the floor around the toilet is getting soft and I was wondering if they might make some kind of extender that would work for a short while. What I was thinking is there a way to put another board over the soft board just until I can get time and money to redo the whole floor. Of course that would raise the toilet about an inch higher then it is now making the contact with the sewer line too far away. So do they make some kind of extender that would make the toilet reach the sewer?

A. They do make an extender that attaches to the toilet drainpipe. If you follow the link you will see a picture of it towards the bottom of the page. It should be available at any of the big box home improvement retailers or a plumbing wholesale.

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Cast Iron To PVC Pipe Connector

Q. My home was build before the washers were used in the basement. The sewer pipe is cast iron coming from under the cement floor up the corner of the basement. My question is I would like to start just above the floor and change the cast iron to PVC heavy wall 4 inch. The cast iron pipe is 4 inches on the outside and new 4 inch PVC is 4 1/4 on the out side. Any suggestions?

A. They make a cast iron to PVC fitting - should be available at your local big box retailer or plumbing supply wholesale.

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Storm Door Installation

Q. I need to put up a storm door. Can anyone tell me how hard this is to do? It looks pretty easy just looking at it. But I seen a man across the street a while back ago putting one up and he sure had a hard time. It took him 2 or 3 days to get it right. So I am wondering if it is as easy as it looks.

A. Size and the square of your doorframe is the key!

If you purchase a storm door that is the right size and your doorframe is square, it shouldn't be more than a couple of hour project.

As a note, most storm doors have the hinge attached to the door in a manner that requires that you screw the hinge into place while balancing the door. It is really a 2 person project, one to hold the door in position while the other screws the hinge to the door frame.

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Drafts From Cracks Around Replacement Windows‏

Q. How do I fix the cracks

I had someone look at it last year - he was actually here to install 6 new replacement windows

When I showed him the cracks he said he did not know how to fix but I could replace those windows.

Like NO!- that window is a bow window that would have cost me thousands - that I don't have. Any suggestions on a fix?

I am thinking to get clear silicone and use sparingly where I see the gaps - and then maybe for the winter line the shelf of that window area with a thick decorative blanket and close off with insulated drapes in the evening?

A. I would recommend a latex or acrylic caulking, not silicone.

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Drafts From Recessed Light Fixtures

Q. I have a recessed light in the kitchen - last winter there was a draft coming through the house and going out or in that area the electrical working of the light is into the crawl space of the attic - yes I can get up there but not if to toss a woolen blanket over the whole thing or just pile insulation on top of it some sort of gray metal box

I was told I cannot cover up that area because when the light is on - the heat needs to be able to escape. Any suggestions?

A. Recessed lights have to be rated "IC" by UL labs if you want to put insulation around them. If they are not rated "IC" you could have start a fire by placing insulation around them.

Your choice is to replace the current fixture with an IC rated fixture, if the one you currently have is not IC rated.

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Jacking A Damaged Beam

Q. I need to replace the beam in my basement that fell. Do I need a jack to jack it up first and then put a jack stand in? I can't tell if jack stand has a jack made in it or not.

A. The top plate of the jack stand is connected to a threaded rod. Although you can use it to jack up the beam it is hard, because you must place a wrench on the joint where the thread sits in the jack post.

It is easier to use a hydraulic jack to do the actual jacking - you can rent them at most rental stores. Once the beam is jacked into position, you insert the jack in the link you sent and tighten it snug.

Q. Oh are the jacks I can rent long enough to go from the floor in the basement to the top, which is about 8 feet? I am trying to replace that metal post that fell down. I know I can do it I just am not sure of all the tools I need to do it with.

A. No the jacks will not have a long enough cylinder to reach 8'. I would recommend you get a piece of 6 x 6 after you rent the jack - you have to know how high the jack is before you will know the length of the 6 x 6, it will be 8' less the height of the jack. Make sure everything is level and perpendicular before you start jacking.

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Bouncy Floor Near Toilet‏

Q. As a Christmas present I plan on tiling my girlfriends' parents bathroom. While the job itself shouldn't be a problem, I've noticed the floor near the toilet is bouncy. I don't want to put 12x12 or 18x18 tile down, but I really do not want to rip everything apart.

Any suggestions?

A. As with most projects, it is the foundation that makes a bad job into a good job. It is not uncommon in older homes to have rotten floorboards and joists around the toilet. I suggest you take a look at the problem and then determine if the floorboards and or joists need repair or replacement.

There is little sense in putting good money over a bad sub-floor. A 1/4" of underlay may be all that is necessary to correct the problem

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Plaster Debris

Q. I am working on a house built in 1890 and have considerable plaster debris. I am wondering if there is any problem with dumping this waste in the crawl space? Just the plaster, not the lathe.

Or is there any "green" use for it? Anything but substance for the landfill?

A. DONT DO IT!!! I have a home built in 1898 in upstate NY. The plaster may not have anything bad for the environment in it but it probably has paint on it. The paint will most likely have LEAD in it. You will contaminate your home and the cost will be tens of thousands of dollars to clean up the soil, lead paint dust throughout, and don’t forget your furniture.

Dispose of it properly.

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Water Leak After New Siding Is Installed

Q. I have water leaking behind the new hardy plank siding I just had
installed. It is coming from the big pipe where the kitchen sink connects.
It leaks on the outside of the house. Any suggestions?

A. It sounds like they drove a nail through a pipe when they installed the siding.

If you just had it installed I suggest you call the contractor and have them repair the pipe and replace the siding.

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Painting Up To A Popcorn Ceiling

Q. I am going to paint some walls in my house and we have popcorn
ceilings (which I hate). What is the best way to not get pain on the
ceiling around the edges? I can't tape..can I?

A. Taping the a popcorn ceiling is difficult, the paint will usually get behind the tape, because you cannot get a tight seal.

Use a 12" wide, plastic drywall knife held in the angle of the ceiling where it meets the wall, hold it at about a 30 degree angle and using a paint brush, paint the wall. The drywall knife will keep the paint from touching the ceiling.

Make sure you wipe the edge of the knife often, as paint will build up there and will run to the ceiling side of the knife.

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Cracked Toilet Tank

Q. A toilet tank has cracked. We have another toilet so it's not a disaster. There is a crack running vertically about 2/3s down from the top. Is there any way to repair the tank? It is an American Standard tank and as best I could read the number on the lid, it is F 4058 95 and is an old tank. I called one hardware store and he said I should use a universal tank. Is this the best way or can I order from somewhere an exact match? Is it possible to buy a tank without the lid since the lid if fine?

A. Any of the big box home improvement centers will order you a tank. All tanks do not fit all bowls, so it is important that you give them the number, they will verify it with American Standard to find the right current equivalent.

To my knowledge you cannot by the tank without the lid.

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Drafty Door & Baseboards

Q. We just bought our first single family and have lived here 2 months now. I fear our energy bills will be huge, as every wall seems to be drafty. Not really the windows, which are Andersen and only about 4 years old or so. They seem to be ok. What do you recommend to seal up the leaks where the floors and walls meet? Also, the front door isn't properly sealed. We bought a "Dennis Comfort Seal Magnetic & Compression Door set", but my husband says we need to return it b/c we have to have a professional come in and draft-proof the door. I think he's wrong. It's a regular door, it has a window in it, not sure how else to describe it. Will this kit work? Can I do it myself? I'm 5ft tall 95 lbs and never done this before.

A. The draft between the floor and walls sounds like there is no insulation behind the baseboards. Remove a baseboard and take a look, you can use the expanding foam insulation or put some fiberglass in - don't crush the fiberglass as it is the air that is the insulator. If they are small cracks you can use caulking.

The door insulation kit is easy to install, follow the instructions. It should work and stop the drafts.

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Cleaning Raw Wood

Q. This may seem like a weird question, but can you clean and disinfect wood? Doesn't it just sink in and not come out with common cleaners like Lysol? I have wood cabinets in the condo, and all the surfaces are "raw" wood, and look kind of dirty.

A. Raw wood is very difficult to clean, because it stains very easily. I spoke to a cabinetmaker friend and he suggests you try bleach such as Clorox. Make sure you wear gloves, covering on all your skin and goggles. You then have to wash down the cabinets with some light soap and water. It does stink so make sure you can open the windows for ventilation. This is not a guaranteed solution to the problem, but he says it works 75% of the time. It depends on what the dirt is. If it is grease, it will need to be sanded.

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