Jacking Up A Floor

Q: I have noticed the house settling really bad on one side. It is mainly the living room and back bedroom. It has gotten so bad that you can notice how it slopes down as you walk through the hall really bad. I have been going to work on the attic area and get it fixed up for livable space and just went up there to check things out and noticed even that space over the living room and back bedroom is also sloping really bad. So I went to the basement to see if I can find out what happened. And it really scared me.

The basement is kind of like a full basement where there is about the size of a room cemented in and can be walked around in. The heat and air unit and washer and dryer go down there. Well in 4 areas are these really heavy large poles that are screwed into the cement floor and go all the way up to the top to keep the floor level above. Well one of the post has gotten old and fallen out of the square thing it was in that is screwed to the floor. I don't think I can use any of the parts that have fallen since it is kind of damp down there at times when we get a lot of rain. So it is pretty much rusted out and ruined.

The other 3 still look like they are in good shape. But how do I get the floor leveled back out without that pole? I thought maybe I could get a really heavy board and beat it with a hammer until I get it in the area. But I don't know if that would work. And I know the jacks that are sold in the stores would never go that high. I could put some jacks back in the back where there is dirt that wasn't finished. It is just about 3 feet back there. Which is actually only about 4 feet from where the post was so it may work. If the dirt under the jack doesn't give, which it probably won't since it is like concrete back there it is so hard. But then I don't know if I have the strength to push on a jack and get it to go up and level the floor. Are they really hard to get up? I am really worried about the house staying this way too long. And I don't have a man around to help give me extra strength.

A: By "the jacks that are sold in stores" do you mean the ones for cars? Those are not tall enough, but there are special jacks used for houses that consist of a column with a built-in threaded extension that are used for jacking up basement beams. You install one next to the broken column and jack it up very slowly, over a period of several weeks, until the height is where it's supposed to be. Then you put in a new column to replace the jack. From the way you're talking, it doesn't sound as though this would be a do-it-yourself job for you, but a contractor could do it easily.

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Foundation Wall Cracks

Q: I'm embarrassingly clueless about the cracks in my basement walls, and who to call for help with them. What do you call the folks who repair them?

My other question is, can I call anyone else for a more impartial inspection? I don't know how bad the cracks are (they don't leak) and I'm worried that someone who repairs walls would say sure, they need repair, when they really don't. I'm also worried about them wanting to do more work than is really necessary.

I'd call the city housing inspector, but then I'd have to do it to their specifications, right?

A: Although it will cost you a few dollars you can get a competent impartial inspection from any of the house inspection services. You can find one close to you in the yellow pages.

It sounds like you need a contractor that works on "foundations". Once you get the report from the inspector you will know much better what type of contractor you need.

If you follow the link, you will learn a lot more about basement water problems and foundation cracks.

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Crooked Fence Posts

Q: I have a 4x4 fencepost cemented in the ground and it is tipping out along with the fence that's attached to it. It's on the end right next to my house. Is there a way to encourage it to straighten up without breaking the concrete or the post in the process? As it is, it may be beginning to encourage people to attempt to enter my back yard that way.

There's another fencepost that's tipping inwards. Any ideas abut that one?

Both of these posts don't appear to have any other problems and seem firmly in the ground with no broken concrete.

A: The problem is all of the stress in pulling inward, the concrete hasn't broken it has shifted within the ground.

Dig out the ground on the opposite side to the inward tilt. On the inside use a 2 x 4 on an angle, top at the top of the fence post and bottom on the ground, hammer down on the top of the 2 x 4 which should force the fence post upright and into the area that you dug out. Dig out the inside area of the bottom of the fence post, about 4" wide and 2' deep or more if the ground is soft. Fill with new concrete, allow to dry for at least 2 days before you remove the 2 x 4 that is holding the fence upright.

You can use the same technique on the corner and along the wall.

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Repacing The Foundation On An Addition

Q: My wife and I have been working almost non-stop to fix up our little hovel to make it a comfortable retirement cottage. At this point we're focusing on the exterior. It's got old clapboard siding that we've been scraping old, priming and painting (and fixing up when the need arises).

There's a small addition that was built onto the house some time ago and the folks that did it didn't do a very good job of providing sufficient foundation or footing for it. It has since fallen away from the main house at the top by almost four or five inches and the floor inside is very un-level. We're thinking of jacking it up and working on the support to level it out, but haven't done this kind of job before. Any ideas on how we should go about doing this (including things not to do) would be greatly welcomed.

A: You have to be very careful when jacking up an addition as the addition is joined to the main house and you can do major damage to the areas where the two buildings are attached to one another. Without seeing the addition the best method, if logistics allow, is to run a temporary beam under the outside edge (inset the thickness of the foundation) of the addition, longer than the addition and jack the building from under the ends of that beam. That gives you full clearance under the building to rebuild the foundation and basement floor.

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Paint Spray

Q: Part of my wood fence is on the property line of my neighbor. I'd like to put paint on top of the cedar boards that constitute the fence to protect the wood but the paint runs over to the other side that is not painted. The paint is an off white color but a little of it spilled over doesn't seem to be too noticeable. Is there a way to prevent too much spillage?

A: You could temporarily nail a piece of plywood or cardboard to the neighbor’s side. This would allow you to spray or brush the paint and the paint between the boards would end up on the piece of plywood. Keep moving the plywood along the length of the fence as you paint.

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Installing Trim On Steel Studs

Q: I have a new house that uses metal stud walls. What is the proper way to fasten trim to a metal studded wall? Can liquid nails be used instead of nails?

A: Liquid nails or other construction adhesive is generally the best method for trim on metal studs if they did not lay a 2x4 in the lower channel or provide some wood facing for the trim.

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Concrete Mix

Q: I bought some concrete mix where I add water and then I should smooth it on but it didn't smooth out. Looks like pieces of stone or small rocks. How long should it take to mix concrete in a wheel barrel?

A: It sounds like you are trying to spread it on to thin. The stones should sink and you should have a layer of 1/4" or so of concrete without stones. You have to smooth the surface of the concrete with a trowel.

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Squeaky Staircase

Q: The stairs going from the first to second floor make a LOT of noise when used. The basement stairs are directly beneath them so I have access to them except that there is sheetrock on the underside of the stairs. The stairs are carpeted as well. What are my
options for eliminating the squeaks?

A: Over time the nails and/or screws holding the treads loosen. The best fix is to attach 4 to 6" triangular shaped pieces to the underside of the treads and risers - use construction adhesive and screws to fasten them.

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Brick Fireplace Surround- How Do You Remove It?

Q: We have a large and ugly brown brick fireplace in the middle of the longest wall in our living room. i know it can be removed, my neighbor took his out, but alas now he has moved away so i cant ask him how it was done.

It is one layer of brick on the wall, about 5 feet tall. It does not connect to an out side wall, (we live in a condo) the hearth part is about one foot W by 5 feet L and it is 4 bricks tall.

What is the best tools or way to do all this? I am concerned mostly about the hearth, I think the wall will be easy.

A: The trick, in order not to make a monster mess is to remove the bricks from the top down. The first couple of bricks are the hard ones. Using a 3/8" carbide drill bit, drill into the mortar below the top set of bricks. Then using a concrete chisel, break away the rest of the mortar. Use a small hand 2.5 lb. hammer and tap the brick on the face until it comes loose. Once you have removed the first couple using the drill, the rest will just
break away once hit on the face.

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Right Ladder For Exterior Painting

Q: I'm considering painting my house. Probably not until spring but I like to plan ahead. So I'm wondering about the best type of ladder to get.

What looks most stable to me are the ladders whose feet spread out rather than the straight up and down ones. What do you think?

My house is about 20 feet high. Is there an easy way to more accurately judge the height of the house without being able to get up there? I'll need to know what height ladder to get.

Also, I presume the best way to clean my aluminum siding in preparation for painting is to power wash it but isn't that dangerous, handling pressure at the top of a ladder? Is there a better way?

A: You shouldn't need to be that accurate with the height. 10' per story should take you to the gutters. If the house is 20' you will need a 24' ladder or more. The wider the feet the more stability. You can rent a good ladder rather than buying something flimsy!!

Scaffolding is great if there is a lot of work in spots, however if it is just to paint around windows you will spend 90% of your time putting up and taking down the scaffolding.

I would not use a power washer while standing on a ladder. A decent power washer should hit a 20' height from the ground - otherwise use the scaffolding.

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Bathtub Surround Backing‏

Q: I am in process of replacing my fixtures for my bathtub with shower. My house was built in the mid 70's. When we pulled the laminate sheet to get to the pipes the only thing we found behind it was drywall. I found some tiles that will be a nice for the walls as a new surround. I've gone to home depot to be told that I need to take out the drywall down to the studs and install another type of board. Can't remember the name of material. Is it necessary to remove the dry wall? The old surround did not go all the way to the ceiling and if hasn't seemed to bother the dry wall that is there.

A friend who does tiles seemed to think that I could just get the board and put it over it. I'm confused. Are there other methods can this be placed over the drywall that is already there?

A: The problem is usually the added thickness of the second layer of cement board or greenboard when you try to finish around the faucets and tub edges. If the added thickness is not a problem, then you can add the cement board or greenboard on top of the current drywall - providing that the current drywall is not rotting in any spots, if there is rot, mold or mildew you will be trapping it in the walls where it will grow!!! Find the studs and make sure the second layer of material is screwed through the first layer and into the studs, not just into the first layer of drywall.

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Repairing Holes In Drywall

Q: I'm renting a house where the previous tenants had an entertainment center bolted to plaster walls. When we removed the piece of furniture we discovered that they were secured by nickel-sized butterfly hook bolts. They left substantial holes in the wall that needed repairing.

We used wall patching (plaster sheets that you wet and apply, sand when dry). Unfortunately they are extremely noticeable because it's another layer on top of the wall.

Any suggestions on how we can make it more flush and less noticeable? I realize it'll never be perfect, but the condition it's in now concerns me.

A: If it is a large hole you need to install a piece of drywall and then use mudd to do the repair. Install a piece of wood (just wide enough to hold the piece of drywall), a couple of inches should be more than suitable on the backside of the wall, using screws through the front of the wall and attach the piece of drywall to it using screws.

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Carpet Glue‏

Q: The carpet is coming apart at the seams and the edges, mostly from the water and suction from being cleaned by the carpet cleaners. Also wear and tear. It needs to be re-glued or reattached. What is the best way to do this? What type of glue should I get if that's best?

A: The best thing to do is remove the old glue tape and buy some new tape at any of the big box home improvement centers. You place the tape below the seam and then use an iron to melt the glue on the tape.

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Bathtub Surround Backing

Q: I am in process of replacing my fixtures for my bathtub with shower. My house was built in the mid 70's. When we pulled the laminate sheet to get to the pipes the only thing we found behind it was drywall. I found some tiles that will be a nice for the walls as a new surround. I've gone to home depot to be told that I need to take out the drywall down to the studs and install another type of board. Can't remember the name of material. Is it necessary to remove the drywall? The old surround did not go all the way to the ceiling and if hasn't seemed to bother the dry wall that is there. A friend who does tiles seemed to think that I could just get the board and put it over it. I'm confused. Are there other methods can this be placed over the drywall that is already there.

A: "CONDENSATION" - The moisture that forms on your mirror when you take a hot shower, is also forming on the walls! As there is a small air gap, in places, between the panel and the wall that it is glued to (unless you got 100% coverage of a waterproof adhesive), you have condensation forming between the shower panel and the drywall, which will eventually cause mold, mildew and rot.

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Connecting Cast Iron To Pex Piping

Q: I have a hot water heating system with pump (not a gravity system) using cast iron piping and cast iron radiators (baseboard and standing). When we remodeled the kitchen we removed the old tall wall radiator and put in a baseboard kick heater. Is it possible to use PEX tubing to tie this into the old radiator stubs or do I need a complete separate zone?

A: If your question is "can you connect cast iron pipe to PEX tubing within a zone", the answer is yes. The delivery system does not have effect the water being pumped. Make sure you use proper conversion fittings.

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Removing Hinge Pins

Q: This may seem to be a stupid question but can anyone tell me how to remove the pins from the door hinges? I have been able to drive the top of the middle pin up a bit but the others are painted over and I can't seem to get the edge of the screwdriver under the head. There also seems to be a portion of pin in the bottom. Does this need to be removed also? There are three hinges on this outside door. Does it make any difference in which order I remove them to do it safely? The reason I need to do this quickly is because the humidifier has swollen the door to the extent that it can't be pulled open from the inside. I need to plane off just a little on the bottom of the side with the latch and a small strip in the bottom. This is my front door and it is currently out of use.

A: There are three types of hinge pins:

The first is the basic pin, which goes through the hinge and protrudes about 1/8" out of the bottom.

The second has a cap on the end, which is molded from one side of the hinge - the bottom of the pin seats itself in this cup.

The third has a cap on the bottom that unscrews - it is threaded into the bottom of on side of the hinge and when removed you can see the hinge pin.

All that being said, when hinge bolts are painted over it is usually easier to unscrew the hinge from either the door or the frame then to fight the bolt. Make sure you have someone balancing the door when your remove the screws. Take all but one screw out of each hinge then remove the others.

Q: I think that maybe I have the third type. My question now is if that is the
case, what tool is needed to remove the bottom piece? With the paint
it is hard to tell. Is it a screwdriver or is an allen wrench needed?

A: There are so many manufacturers of hinges, it is impossible to say.

Some require a pair of pliers and just turn to unscrew the cap at the bottom. If there is an allen key hex hole at the bottom of the cap, then you can use an allen key. You may want to take a utility knife and scratch a line where the cap meets the hinge, basically just cutting the paint so that it makes it a little easier to unscrew.

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