Stainless Steel Countertops

Q: I am considering installing a stainless steel countertop. My husband is a welder and works in a fabrication shop so we could get the steel reasonable. I was just wondering if anyone else has "homemade" countertops? What thickness and grade of material did you use? I figured this way I could get a sink just like I want. Big and deep!

A: Stainless steel has advantages and disadvantages. The biggest advantage is that it is very easy to clean. The biggest disadvantage is that it scratches easily and a knife on stainless steel will dull the knife instantly.

To fabricate stainless steel you need rollers and presses. SS countertops are rolled and formed not welded. Welding would not make for a nice finished product as well edges need to be rolled so that they are not sharp. Sinks are pressed from a die so that the edges have easy water run off and are easy to clean.

You would use a 16 or 18 gauge 304 SS.

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Limited Hot Water In Shower

Q: The shower in my bathroom never runs very hot, although I think that even after a tepid shower I can still get hot water from the sink. What's up with that? The hot water heater is right across the hall from the bath, what causes the cold showers?

A: Many of the single handle tub/shower faucets have a temperature control installed so that you won’t accidentally get scalded from hot water if someone flushes a toilet or runs the water elsewhere in the home.

Although they are called temperature controls, most operate on the basis of maintaining pressure, so if the cold water pressure drops at the faucet, the faucet compensates by allowing more cold water to enter the mixer portion of the body. They are adjustable, usually a screw in the center of the faucet assembly.

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Price Of Concrete

Q: We are thinking a concrete slab out the back door then maybe some sod adjacent to that. My first question is: what does a 10x10 or 10x20 concrete slab cost? I have no clue. Pardon my ignorance!

A: The price of concrete is somewhat dependent on where you live - $110 to $150 a cubic yard, delivery is usually around $50. In some areas there is a minimum delivery of 2 to 4 cubic yards. That is the concrete only, forms and re-bar are extra.

To calculate how much concrete you will need follow the link:

Q: This is exactly what we were looking for - an actual calculator. You should of seen all these "mathematicians" sitting here at the dinner table tonight. One last question: a slab patio rectangle (10x20), what thickness? My father in law stated 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches deep should be plenty. Is this correct?

A: I wouldn't go less than 4" - don't forget the wire mesh or rebar.

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Gasket Under Kitchen Sink Faucet

Q: I have hot and cold faucets there as well as a center spigot. There is the usual decorative cover over them that has Price Pfister stamped on it. There is no gasket between the cover and the sink lip that it rests on. Is a gasket needed there? I'm not sure if leaking is an issue.

A: Some faucets come with bottom gaskets, other's rely on plumbers putty or caulking to stop water from seeping from the top of the counter and under the faucet.

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Replacing A Staircase

Q: I am going to replace my basement stairs. Any hints or suggestion for doing this? Right now the stairs are two 2x10 with the steps just nailed into the side wood. I would like to make the stairs and lay the steps on the cut out stairs. I would appreciate any advise that I can get.

A: I have complete details on step and staircase replacement, including an automatic calculator for staircase measurements - just follow the link.

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Removing Handle From Kitchen Faucet

Q: How do I get the handle off my kitchen sink faucet? It is stuck and I don't want to break it. It's a round handle that screws onto a spindle type of valve connection. The screw is off. It's the cold water one and doesn't get removed as often as the hot one. I think I need to replace the gasket underneath the covering which surrounds the hot and cold valves and the center spigot and this it why I'm trying to remove it..

A: If you have removed the screw, the only thing holding it on is friction and probably some calcium build-up. Try to use a screwdriver as a pry bar angling it to push the handle up.

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No Water Pressure From Well

Q: Woke up this morning with very little water pressure (coming on and off in pressure) and then no water. Checked water purification system and we were out of softener salt although I do not think this had anything to do with it, we added more softener salt and saw the pressure start to rise. Also found the second bathroom toilet running (stop did not seal correctly). We were able to get back up to 50lbs of pressure in pressure tank but then when I tried to take a shower lost all water again. Water pressure seemed to be gaining a few minutes later and we had water in the sinks. I did not try the shower again. Hoping someone can enlighten me as to what possible problems we could be encountering.

A: Neither the water purification system or the toilet running is the problem. It is difficult to answer without seeing the installation. However, from your description I believe the problem is with the well pump. One of 4 possibilities come to mind.

1. The seals on the pump are worn.

2. There is a crack in the piping from the pump to your home.

3. The motor on the pump has a short in the winding (long shot).

4. The water table has receded so that it is just at the pump suction level - if the water table is just at the pump suction as the pump sucks water, it lowers the water level and the pump sucks air. Over a period the water table rises a bit and the pump can suck water again.

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Roof Vent Installation

Q: We've been advised by a surveyor to increase the ventilation in the roof space by replacing a few of the slates with roof vents. We're pretty handy but not done anything on roofs at all. Our roof is asbestos cement fake slates. (It won't be high-level working as the house is a bungalow and the vents would be near the bottom of the roof.)

A: If you haven't performed any roofing you should consider a pro or finding a friend that has some experience. It is not an overly difficult project, but if the roof is not sealed properly, you will have no end of problems with water damage - a lot more than the pro would have charged for the installation of the vents. Also working with asbestos cement shakes requires a bit of practice.

I am somewhat surprised that the surveyor has recommended that the vents be near the bottom of the roof. Venting problems are usually because the hot moist air can't escape, not because the air isn't entering the attic space. To remove hot moist air, you want the vents closer to the top of the peak. However, if the surveyor believes that there is no airflow into the attic, it would make sense.

If the vents are needed at the low end, why not add vents in the underneath of the soffit? It is an easier project. You can purchase many different types of soffit vents from circular - where you just need to drill a large hole to square and rectangular - cut the soffit with a jig saw. You may have to pull back the ventilation from the soffit area.

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