Pier & Beam Foundation Problem

Q: Is there anyway I can stabilize wobbly areas in my house without having to pay a foundation company $2,000 to do the whole house? I need to do this until I can save up enough to pay a pro.

A: You are going to have to tell us more about the problem. Are the piers crumbling? Are the beams cracked? What are the piers made of? Do they sit on footings? How high off the ground are you?

Q: From what I can see in some areas the cement blocks have moved and are no longer stabilizing the outer area's of the house. I don't know about the beams, I can't see way under the house. As far as how high I am above the ground....at the front of the house I am pretty close to the ground, but the ground slopes and by the time you get the back of the house I would say we are about 3 feet or a little more off the ground.

A: There are some pages that I have put together on my website for jacking up homes, follow the link. However, those pages are based on jacking in the basement or crawlspace and you really don't have room to do that. You need solid ground to do the jacking, in your case you will need to rent some steel plates about 4' square, at least 3/4" thick to place on the ground. Place the steel plates on the ground, remove any grass or loam and place the jack on the plate under the house about 2' from the problem. Jack until the jack is tight, then jack about an 1/8" at a time until the building is off the current support and being supported by the jack. You will then have to dig down to install a footer, and then a column to support the structure, the following page is for deck foundations, but the it applies to a home as well. http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/deck-foundation.htm. The columns have to be level, I suggest you use a laser level, they are relatively inexpensive. You have to be extremely careful, the house is only supported by the jack and you will be digging, don't allow yourself to be under the structure unless you are a 110% sure that it is stable.

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Flagstone Versus Concrete For A Patio

Q: Would flagstone be cheaper than a cement slab if doing a 10x20 patio?

A: A 10 x 20 patio in concrete 6" thick is 100 cu.ft of concrete or aprox. 4 cu. yds at 4" thick it is aprox. 3 cu. yds. Depending on where you are you will pay between $125 and $175 per cu. yd. Then you need material to make a form, and wire mesh to help prevent the concrete from cracking. You still have to prepare a good base for the concrete and you will need some tools such as a float to finish the concrete properly.

Flagstone requires a sand base properly compacted. Some people like to mortar the joints. Quality flagstone will cost about $5 to $10 a square foot, depending on the thickness and where you are located. But the installation is easier and you can do it at your own pace.

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Painting Concrete Porch‏

Q: I would like to paint my front porch which is concrete and wondered if I need a certain kind of paint to stick and stay on the concrete.

A: Most paint companies have a "Porch and Floor" paint that is made for concrete. Make sure you follow the surface prep instructions.

12/2 15 Amp Breaker‏

Q: Can you use a 15-amp breaker for number 12 romex?

A: The answer is "YES". You can always use a lower rated breaker or fuse in a circuit

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Vinyl Siding

Q: I wood like to replace the wood siding on my home and I am considering using vinyl. Is it difficult to install?

A: Vinyl siding is a relatively easy project, but usually needs two people, because of the length of the material.

Corners are handled by different moldings, as are eves and soffits.

The trick to a good installation is planning and making sure that the starter pieces are truly level!

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Fuse To Circuit Panel Upgrade

Q: I am ready to do a major kitchen remodel. My electric includes a 1963 fuse box, with a subpanel from 7 years ago. 100 amp service. I fear I will be told to replace the box with a modern panel. How much should this be (approx)? Will this type of upgrade make my house more saleable? If I have to upgrade inside, do I have to upgrade outside (the pole and wire to the grid)?

A: A 100 amp service in this day and age is low. Most new homes have 150 minimum and 200 has become more common.

To upgrade the service they will (most likely) have to increase the wire gauge from the pole to your home, that portion of the upgrade is done by the utility.

A new circuit breaker panel for your home will cost (installed by a pro), between $1,250 and $2,000. A lot depends on where you are. You can obtain quotes very easily.

As to selling your home, many insurance companies will no longer insure homes with fuse panels - they demand circuit breaker distribution panels. It all depends on the competition in your area as to whether it will make your home more saleable, but in my opinion it most likely will.

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Clogged Drain

Q: My bathroom sink drain repeatedly gets slow. I tried the Drano in the can, the one that sprays it down with a blast of air, and it worked. I figured it was as much the air as the Drano. Now when it gets slow, I take a little compressed air tank, put the nozzle down the drain in such as way as to make a seal, block the overflow with a finger and squeeze the trigger. Works every time and stays good for 6 weeks or so; is it possible that whoever put that piece of drainpipe in didn't slope it enough? It's been snaked and cleaned multiple times.

A: I would suspect your problem is a build-up inside the pipe or at the trap. What happens is, when you add the compressed air, Drano or snake, it makes a small opening through the grunge that is in the pipe, as soon as there is any opening the water flows and the Drano goes through the hole, after a short period of time that 1/2" or so hole gets clogged again.

The most common area for build-up is the trap, so I would suggest you remove the trap and clean it out. If that is not the problem area, from the drain side of the trap, insert a larger diameter snake.

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Attic Insulation

Q: We live in a colonial that was built in the 1940s. The house is cold in the winter and of course a fortune to heat. Our inspector told us the place could use more insulation in the attic floor and I am finally looking into it. I worry about exposing my children (and me) to something dangerous. First question is the type of insulation. I know most people get fiberglass but I have also looked at recycled paper (I forget the name) and some sort of foam insulation. My brother just renovated a home they bought and she's an environmental lawyer and swears by the recycled paper stuff. I looked at it online and it's not been around very long and whatever they use to make it flame retardant is also not something you want in your lungs. My related problem is that our air conditioning ducts are cut out of the ceiling - aka the attic floor. I just have this visual of blowing insulation up into the floor and having it come out right into my kids' noses (of course the ducts are right over their beds). What kind of person could I get to come look at the ducts and make sure the insulation doesn't leak into them? I feel like I need some hand holding on this but don't know whom to call - e.g. the insulation people seem to be the wrong people to ask.

A: The type of insulation you use is somewhat relative to the insulation already there and how much more R factor you are trying to obtain, how easy it is to get into the attic and the overall logistics.

Don't worry about the insulation coming through the ceiling air ducts, the piping should be sealed and not allow insulation to enter.

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Air Admittance Valves

Q: I am in the midst of adding a new bathroom and I am working on the plumbing. I need to install a vent, but I really don’t want to cut into the roof. I am considering using an air admittance valve and would like your opinion.

A: AAV's (air admittance valves) are not legal as vents in many jurisdictions. Check with your local building department before you install one. AAV's need to be accessible, serviceable and must be used in the highest place they can be installed. This may mean you may need to go as far as the attic to install it if you can run the vent that far. Mostly AAV's are used instead of loop venting for island sinks and bar sinks that are installed as an after thought. They are a time saver yet there are implications for installing them.

Remember you are venting sewer gases with a vent. If the AAV should fail the sewer gases from the main sewer line in the city sewer, your septic tank or cesspool can enter the living space. These gases can create an unhealthy environment. A traditional vent is the best and should be used. Sometimes this is not possible so the AAV is an alternative method for venting.

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Converting A Small Log Outbuilding As A Part-Time Habitat

Q: We have a nice log outbuilding, of a good size for a small cabin. It was built about 30 years ago, and the logs were creosoted way back then, as it was a storage facility. I would love to convert it to something more useful, if possible, as I am not a builder and don't have resources to start a new one. Do you think that this could be interior plastic-sealed, insulated, with drywall on the interior for farm help habitation? It was made so long back that there is no creosote odor emanating from it at all - even in the sticky heat of summer.

A: I would be very hesitant about having someone live in a building that has been creosoted, even if it was decades ago.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and the EPA has determined that creosote is most likely a carcinogenic to humans.

Diagnosticians have determined that breathing the vapors of any of the creosotes has caused irritation of the respiratory tract.

It is almost impossible to seal any structure to the point were vapors are not present, just opening a window or door to the outside could cause the vapors to enter the inside.

The fact that you are aware of the potential health hazard makes you liable should someone become ill after being in the building.

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Asbestos In Flooring Adhesives

Q: Our current project is replacing the flooring in our sunroom. The sunroom was added in the 1960's and has beautiful avocado green linoleum. The floor is sliced in places, curling at the edges, and there is at least one soft spot in the subflooring. My fear w/ tearing it up is asbestos. I've read the adhesive used to glue the linoleum has asbestos in it and when you tear it up you release the dust into the air, which can be dangerous. Is any of that true? And, if so, is it safe to tear it up? Wet it first? Any advice, experience, or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

A: Yes, asbestos was used in some adhesives for flooring. Once you start removing asbestos you will most likely (depending on where you are) fall under some environmental guidelines for the safe removal. In many areas homeowners are not permitted to remove asbestos products themselves and must hire a licensed contractor.

The best way to solve the problem is to leave the current floor in place and cover it with a layer of 1/4" plywood and place your new flooring on it.

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Toilet Flushing Problem

Q: I have an issue with one of my toilets. It won't flush right unless you hold the handle down. It was taken up from the floor and the drain was snaked out to 25 ft so there is no clog to that point. I don't think anyone checked for a clog in the toilet its self since I was still in GA at the time. What would be the next step?

A: If the toilet will flush correctly if you hold the handle down, the problem has nothing to do with the drain. The handle raises the flapper valve and allows the water to move from the tank to the bowl. When you move the handle, the flapper valve raises and should stay up until all the water has left the tank and then fall down so that the tank can be filled. Look at the flapper valve and chain holding it to the handle. The problem is with one of those items.

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Removing Glue From Hardwood

Q: The previous owner of my house put some linoleum over a hardwood floor. I have ripped up a big part of it and now have some glue residue left in spots. Could someone tell me a good way to get the glue off or does it just need to be sanded. I cannot afford to have the floor refinished like it needs to be right now and thought maybe if there was a way to make it look a little better for a few months until I get it done I would.

A: Without knowing what type of adhesive was used, you will have to have some trial and error. Use a fiberglass pot scrubber, gently, in circular movements over the adhesive - first try acetone (nail polish remover), if that doesn't work, try alcohol (rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy will work fine), then comes varsol and if none of the above work, anything else will probably damage the wood. After using any of the above chemicals wash that area of the floor with some warm water and dishwasher detergent. Try not to breath in the fumes as you are leaning over the spot and scrubbing, they will give you a good headache. Best if you can pick a day when you can open the windows.

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How Do I Repair A Dresser With A Marble Top?

Q: I have a 2'X4' dresser/credenza that has been in my husbands family for years. It is a darkly stained wood with a marble (I think) top on it. It looks like the previous owners have drilled some holes in the marble top and filled them with something white. I want this furniture piece to have a home behind my sofa. It is the perfect size for there but the top needs to be painted or refinished in some way (actually the whole piece needs re-finishing). Any ideas?

A: Marble is a natural stone and to my knowledge there is no way to fill a hole and not have it noticeable. That being said, my only suggestion would be to visit a marble company and talk to one of their experts. I would think that there are epoxy fills that might be able to be tinted to provide a reasonable match - of course, for you, they will always stand out!

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French Doors‏

Q: I have a set of multi-paned french doors in my house that lead from one room to another. Some of the panes are filled with glass, some with rigid plastic and some that were empty I filled with cardboard when we first moved here and just painted over them. Now we want to replace the plastic and cardboard with glass. Is this a difficult procedure? My husband seems to think it would be 'fairly simple' to remove the molding on one side, which holds the panes in place, put in glass, and nail the molding back on again. But the wood has been painted several times and it's not clear where the nails are, and nailing on a door that has glass panes in it seems like it would be a really difficult job. Does anyone have experience doing this? Any tips? Is it something that is better left to a professional or is this a reasonable do-it-yourself project?

A: Your husband is right (surprise), it is not a difficult job. Use a razor blade knife to cut through the paint where the window glass molding meets the frame of the door. Use a small pry-bar (6 or 7 inch) or scraper to leverage the wood up and the nails should come with the molding, if they go through the molding they can be pulled out with a pair of pliers.

Measure for the glass. When installing the glass you can use the small flat triangle pieces that the picture frame people use to hold the picture in the frame. Then nail the molding into place. When nailing the molding let the head of the hammer slide on the glass, doing it in this manner prevents the hammer from hitting the glass.

If you are going to refinish the doors I would suggest you remove all the glass, plastic and cardboard, refinish the doors and then replace the glass

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Change Circuit Breaker Or Split Power?

Q: How do I determine if I can safely upgrade a 15amp circuit breaker to 20amp without overloading the wires?

I’m almost done moving our home office to a corner of the house that has only one utility box to a 15amp circuit breaker. The total amperage for everything (fax, computer, etc.), being set up is 22-25amp (way too much for that breaker and outlets, of course).

Presently, there are 15amp breakers across the board. I would like to upgrade two breakers to 20amp to split the power and install two outlets on that same wall to distribute the power in a safer way.

A: You cannot change the tripping amperage of the breaker. 14-gauge wire is for a maximum of 15 amps. 12-gauge wire is needed for a 20-amp breaker.

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