Avoiding Clogged Drains

Q: I have a bathroom drain that is continually clogging. I clean it out using drain cleaners and it is fine for a few weeks. How can I cure the problem permanently?

A: The problem with most drain cleaners is that once they create a small hole in the grime in the drain pipes that is creating the problem, it flushes itself down that hole and does not do any more cleaning. It takes little more grease and grime to clog up that small hole.

My suggestion is to use hot water every couple of weeks after you have cleared the next clog with the drain cleaner.

Fill the basin, sink or tub with the hottest water possible – boiling water from a kettle is perfect. Pour the water down the drain. This will flush out the concealed grease and grime that is causing the problem. Each time you flush the drain with the hot water, more of the grease and grime will be dissolved.

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Deglazing PVC Pipe

Q: I am installing some new PVC pipe for a new bathroom sink drain and the sales clerk at the home improvement store told me I should deglaze the pipe and fittings before I glue them together. What is he talking about?

A: Deglazing PVC pipe means to remove the shiny surface. The PVC fitting bonding adhesive works best on a matt surface. PVC cleaner, which should be used on PVC pipe and fittings before gluing them together, acts to deglaze the PVC.

Most PVC adhesives will have a recommended cleaner listed on the label.

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Sanding Dust

Q: I'm in the process of stripping paint and stain from the woodwork in my 1910's American Foursquare. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the dust down, or at least capture some of it, when sanding? In the living room and dining room, it wasn't as much of a problem but now in the kitchen and foyer, I don't want to have clean everything afterwards or tape up drop cloths everywhere.

A: Sanding dust is always a problem. There are a few things that will help a bit. If you are using an electric sander that does not have a built in dust bag, you can tape the nozzle of a vacuum to the sander near the base plate and let it run as you sand. It will be noisy but it will capture a lot of the dust.

You can run a damp (not wet) cloth over the wood before you sand, although this will have a tendency to clog up your sanding discs, belts or pads.

Turn-off the furnace and any other ventilation systems (range hoods, bath fans, etc.) - they draw air from all over the house and will spread the dust. Keep windows and doors closed, as they create air circulation.

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Constructing Rooms In A Clear Span Building

Q: How do I create rooms in one side of a steel beamed clear span building? I want to enclose one end of my horse arena to create a 2-story structure, the bottom half an office/workshop, the top eventually becoming an apartment. There's plenty of headroom. Sidewalls are 16' tall. Building is in excellent shape.

A: It is no different than if you were building the rooms outside of the arena, with the exception that you are using one or two of the current walls. Concrete pad, 2 x4 or steel stud construction. 2 x 4 is better if you are putting on a ceiling and are going to store things on the ceiling, no ceiling then steel works well.

Q: I thought I needed to tie it into the existing building but I guess I can just build it up to the roof without attaching it to the existing building at all. The dimensions will be 20' x 70'. Is there a less expensive option for flooring than poured concrete?

A: You can tie it to the existing building if you so desire (this would allow the current structure to act as part of the walls, but it could produce some problems if the structure and the cladding is metal as the building will definitely expand when exposed to the sun. If you do want to tie it to the existing building, make the boltholes in the lumber larger than necessary and use washers. The larger boltholes will allow the building to expand without tearing the lumber that is tied to the structure.

You can use a wood floor, but in that case I would put a footing in each corner and run 2 X 8 lumber from footing to footing, in the same manner, as you would build a deck. The problem is that the weight of the internal building could sink in one spot if there isn't something to ensure that the weight is distributed evenly. You also want to keep the lumber from direct contact with the ground to avoid rot.

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Floor Bounce

Q: When I bought my house, the VA inspected it, and i also paid for a home warranty inspection (not required). Both gave me the thumbs up. I wish I had crawled under the house myself. I would have noticed that the floor joists were 2x8. Well 2x8s on a 10-foot span doesn’t seem kosher to me. Luckily all the plumbing is run below the joists, and I am planning to sister 2x8s to the existing joists with glue and nails, and this will hopefully take the bounce out of my floor. Suggestions or comments.

A: It is not going to be easy to maneuver the new joists into position and on to the sill plates. Remember that the crown must face up and the weight of the current floor is forcing the floor joists to flatten at the crown. Although you said that the plumbing would not be a problem, what about the electrical?

Without seeing the actual positioning of piping this suggestion may not be workable. I would run a double joist perpendicular to the old joists down the middle of the floor, so that the old joists were now supported in the middle as well as the ends. Depending on where you are, you may have to put in a footer, but only at both ends.

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Sliding Glass Doors‏

Q: One of my sliding glass doors is very difficult to open and close.

A: Sliding glass doors are not suspended in the same manner as sliding closet doors.

They ride on a set of wheels on a bottom track. To remove the door to inspect the wheels, lift-up on the door and it should rise far enough to have the wheels leave the track and the bottom swing in. Sliding glass doors are very heavy, so be careful. Clean out the track with a brush and vacuum. Inspect the wheels and make sure they spin. There is an adjustment for the wheels a screw on each side of the door that will raise and lower them.

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Mold Clean-up

Q: How do I repair and clean up the mold on the wall. Is it necessary to get a mold specialist to clean, or just an ordinary contractor will work? How much it usually cost for 10' length wall?

A: Mold is the result of two much moisture in your home, if you do not correct the problem it will keep coming back.

Follow the link for some mold clean-up guidelines.

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