Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Sound Proofing & Noise Control For Residential Dwellings

With few exceptions, land for residential development continually increases in cost. This means that builders and developers have to pack more homes into ever decreasing space.

With higher density, sound proofing and noise control between residential units becomes more critical and many home designers and architects do not implement all of the sound control techniques that are available.

This applies equally to single occupancy homes, as space between properties can be limited, and to multi-unit dwellings, where occupants may be subjected to noise from adjoining units.

To gain sound proofing and noise control within a residence it is necessary to exceed municipal and national building codes and use “good construction practices”.

Additional information on sound proofing and noise control

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Saturday, May 23, 2009

Using Cantilevers

Q: I am building an addition on the back of my home with a walk out deck. What are the considerations when working with cantilever joists?

A: You have to be concerned about floor system vibration due to floor joist movement and deformation. Having cantilever joists can create a lot of vibration, not only in the cantilever portion of the room but throughout the addition and depending on how the addition I tied into the rest of the joist system, you could create vibration throughout the entire home.

There are different good practice construction methods if using solid lumber versus I-Joists.

Additional information on cantilever construction

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Friday, May 15, 2009

Built To Code – But My Floors Squeak!

Q: Bill, I recently moved into a new home and all the floors squeak! The home builder said that the squeaks would go away in time. I called the local building department and they ensured me that the installation of the floor joists and sub-floors were inspected and built to code.

If it was built to code, why are the floors squeaking?

A: First, let me say that there is a big difference between being “built to code” and “built using good construction practices”.

Building codes are written for the primary purpose of safety. With respect to the flooring, this means that the floor joists that were installed, met the minimum building code size and were within the building codes’ maximum spacing between them. It means that the sub-floor that was installed on the joists met the building codes minimum thickness and these two items combined means, that you, your family and your guests will not fall through the floor.

It is unlikely that the squeaks in the floor will go away, in fact, as the wood used in the flooring system dries, they will most likely squeak even more than they do now.

The website has a large section on the proper construction of flooring systems and you may want to read these pages to learn what shortcuts can be taken by home builders – just follow the link below this blog. It should be noted that callbacks are very costly to home builders and most reputable home builders do their utmost to construct homes that do not require callbacks.

A reputable home builder should be prepared to correct the problem. That being said, I am not a lawyer and if the home builder is not willing to fix the squeaks, you may wish to consult an attorney.

Additional information on floor construction

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Read & Follow The Manufacturer’s Instructions - WARNING!

Recently a neighbor called me over to his home to show me what had happened to the vinyl siding from his propane barbeque, it had melted.

I asked what had happened and he told me that the fat on a Prime Rib Roast that he was barbequing had caught fire. Apparently, flames were exiting the barbeque from the front, back and the sides.

The back of the barbeque was situated approximately 18 inches from the vinyl siding. The “white” vinyl siding, in the area that had suffered the most heat, was black, twisted and buckled.

I noticed a label on the barbeque, which said, “Allow A Minimum Of 30” Of Clear Space On All Sides Of The Barbeque”.

Pretty clear to me! When I pointed it out to my neighbor, his response was, “I never noticed that”.

It is important to read and follow all instructions that are provided by manufacturers, not only for propane barbeques, but for all products. The manufacturers do know their products better than anyone else, and the safety, operation and use information that they supply is for your benefit!

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Monday, May 11, 2009

Professional Flooring Installers

There have been many changes in the flooring industry over the past 20 years - some good, some not so good.

I'm not going to exaggerate and say that back then everyone took pride in what they did and worked efficiently, because that was not the case. However, it did seem that more people, especially younger people, were eager to learn and work hard to make money. As we know, that's not the case in this day and age.

Twenty years ago the procedure for becoming a professional installer was simple. You'd work as an apprentice or "helper" for a few years and gradually learn the skills required to go out on your own as a qualified installer. Nowadays, there seems to be no such thing as an apprentice. As soon as a helper gets wind of how much his or her mentor is making, two weeks later they're an installer running ads in the newspaper and making a mess out of customers' houses. Twenty years ago almost all installers worked in the union. Although union labors do have their bad points, their apprenticeship program was definitely a big benefit. If you were in a union, you did not graduate to installer status unless you were ready and qualified to do so.

I would have to say, honestly, that in my opinion, 50% to 70% of all people calling themselves professional flooring installers should be considering another career! Even some of the ones that have field experience don't have the skills. The experience they have under their belt may have been obtained by their own trial and error, as opposed to professional training. Some are even ordinary people who may have just decided that their previous job was going nowhere, so they bought some Time-Life 'How To" books and hit the streets.

There are many things that I feel contribute to the lack of qualified installers. One thing is the added opportunity we have these days. Installing floor covering is hard work. If a young person attempts to learn a trade such as this, and sees how hard the work is versus, say, learning how to work on a computer, then realizes the pay rate is the same or better for computer work, which field do you think they're going to pursue? One thing that has to change is the pay rate for true qualified installers. In simple terms, it has to increase! Some of the pay rates for this type of work haven't changed in over 30 years, and some have actually gone down! That doesn't give newcomers much incentive, and it sure irritates the ones who already have been in the industry for many years. It irritates some of them to the point that they want to get out, or they work every day with a really bad attitude.

Another contributing factor is that, in many states, counties, towns, etc., there is no license required to do this type of work. Electricians, plumbers and many other tradesmen must be licensed to do the work that they do. In most cases flooring installations run into thousands of dollars—much more than other trades charge for their work. So, why aren't they required to have a license? This makes no sense. I feel that if a license were required for all the different types of flooring installations, it would weed out the non-professionals. Furthermore, in some states, a license is required by flooring installers on commercial jobs, but that licensing is usually overlooked when it comes to residential work contracted by homeowners.

There are some signs that the industry as a whole is attempting to change all of this. With the introduction of laminate flooring into the United States, and the fact that its popularity is growing at a staggering rate, the manufacturers are taking their own approach to this problem. Some of the larger manufacturers are now offering training classes. They charge potential installers a fee and put them through a training program that's designed for their product line. They then deem these trained people "Certified Installers." That's great, except that these classes are usually one to four days, and then they're done. I understand that the manufacturer considers them "certified," but I can't see how they'd be qualified in that short period of time. This goes back to my feeling on the apprentice programs of yesteryear. One good thing about the laminate flooring manufacturers, though: They are all terrified of developing a bad reputation with the buying public. With that in mind, they have been a bit more forgiving when it comes to approving claims. I've seen them approve claims that were installation-related problems and replace them, even though they had no obligation to do it.

What's the bottom line on this subject? Things have to change for the better, or the industry is doomed. When I say doomed, I'm referring to low profits, bad reputations and all of that good stuff. If you buy a floor made by the XYZ company, and you have a problem with it, even if it's installation-related, you may not recommend that floor to anyone. Even if the manufacturer was not at fault, you still had the bad experience. Hopefully, things will change for the better.

In the meantime, I highly recommend that you do all of your homework before hiring an installer. If you're considering doing the installation yourself, and you have some experience with this type of work, then I say go for it! You may be more professional than the "professional" you were going to pay to do the job.

Additional information on installing flooring

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Wednesday, May 6, 2009

What Grout Should I Use For A Kitchen Backsplash

Q: I am planning on installing a backsplash in my kitchen. My wife has been searching for the perfect ceramic tiles and I have been busy investigating the supplies and tools that I will need. When it comes to the grout, I am confused. Some packages say that it has sand and others are sand free. Which one should I use?

A: Sand is added to grout for the same reason that an aggregate is added to concrete. It provides something for the grout to bond to. Grout is basically a type of adhesive similar to mortar. It is designed to fill and seal the spaces between any tile or natural stone. To answer your question, if the gap you are planning to use between tiles is less than an 1/8 inch you will want to use grout without sand. If the gap is larger than 1/8 inch you should use grout with sand. If it is an 1/8 inch, you can use either, but I would recommend that you stick with the non-sand grout.

Additional information on backsplash construction

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