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How To Use and Choose Caulking

Using and Choosing Caulking - Part 2

Part 1

Packaging

The most common forms of caulking is in tubes that require the use of a caulking gun and squeeze tubes, as shown in Figure 1. Some caulking, especially caulking for roofing, is available in bulk in cans and is designed to be used in a refillable caulking gun.

Proper Caulking Methodology:

Most people shy away from doing their own caulking because it can be messy if you have not mastered a technique. However, it is like driving a car, once you have developed the technique you will be able to apply caulking without even thinking about the individual steps.

As with many projects, the right tools are necessary to do a quality job. In the case of caulking a good caulking gun, and learning how to properly cut the tip are two of the keys to success. An experienced caulker can form a perfect bead without ever using their fingers to smooth it over. That takes a lot of experience and most home handymen do not caulk enough to get to that skill level.

To Do:

• Make sure that the surfaces of the crack are clean and free from dirt or other foreign objects such as paint chips or pieces or mortar. Caulking will not adhere to dirt. If you are caulking an area that was previously caulked, remove all of the old caulking before you apply the new caulking. In general, caulking does not adhere well to other caulking.
• Caulking will work for most cracks up to ½ inch. If the crack or hole is wider than that, you should consider using an expanding foam product. Do not attempt to fill the hole with multiple layers of caulking.
• The better the caulking, the longer it will last. High quality elastomeric caulking can last for more than 20 years.
• Caulk will run from the tip of the tube if you do not release the trigger the instant you have completed a bead.
• Keep a rag (a cloth rag is preferable) or paper towels with you at all times. Discard any rags that you have used on completion of the project.
• The more you caulk, the better you will become at creating consistent beads. If you have not caulked before or if you are rusty, take a couple of boards, nail them together and practice creating beads. Most people master a straight horizontal or vertical bead quite quickly; it is corners, turns and where horizontal beads meet up with vertical beads that cause the most problems. A tube of latex caulking is inexpensive and it is well worth the time practicing on scrap lumber before you undertake your project.

• Unless you have entered some obscure caulking contest, do not attempt to create the “perfect” bead. The more you try to smooth out the bead the more likely you are to ruin a bead that was quite acceptable.

Figure 1 - Loading caulking gun	Figure 2 - Cutting caulking tube nozzle	Figure 3 - Placing caulking tube nozzle against seam	Figure 4 - Smoothing applied caulking
Place tube in caulking gun as shown in Figure 1; pull trigger several times to tighten plunger against the inner base of the tube.	Cut the end of the caulking tube nozzle at a 45 degree angle, as shown in Figure 2. A 3/8 inch opening is the right size for most projects.	Place nozzle against the seam, as shown in Figure 3. Angle gun at a 45 degree angle in the direction it will travel. Squeeze trigger gently for even flow.	To ensure a neat finish and firm contact on either side of the seam, smooth fresh caulk with a stick, suitable tool or your finger, as shown in Figure 4.

Figure 5 - Correct and Incorrect method of laying a bead of caulking Figure 6 - Powered caulking gun

There is no consensus on whether you should push the caulking forward or have the caulking trail behind the caulking tube tip. Personally, I do both, depending on the circumstances. Whatever method works best for you is the correct method. The most important point, is to ensure that the caulking is filling the crack as it is being applied so that a sound seal between the edges will be formed.

This is called "laying a bead" and the correct and incorrect finished beads are shown in Figure 5.

The tip of the caulking tube should be cut at a 45 degree angle and must be smooth. If you have rough edges on the inside of the applicator tip the caulking will not run smoothly. Use a knife to remove any rough edges on both the inside and outside of the tip. The hole should be about 1/8 of an inch in diameter. It should always be smaller than the crack you are trying to fill. Hold the tube or caulking gun at a 45 degree angle so that the tip straddles the joint. Squeeze the trigger on the gun or squeeze the outside of the tube, as the case maybe to start the caulking to flow. Once the caulking is flowing, keep a consistent pressure on the trigger or tube. Move the tube at a steady speed over the crack and allow the caulking to fill the void.

A new innovation in applying caulking is the electrically powered caulking gun, shown in Figure 6. The powered gun ensures that a constant pressure is applied to release the caulking and saves crippling your hand if you have a lot of caulking to do.

Additional information on the electrically powered caulking gun

If the surface texture of one or both sides of the joint have a texture, it will be more difficult to create the perfect bead. The important point is that the caulking adheres to the textured surface without any gaps. Running your finger over the surface of the caulking will usually accomplish this.

Water is heavy:

If you are caulking around bathtubs, or sinks, fill them with water before you apply the caulking. Water is heavy and in most cases the bathtub or sink will be lower when filled. Caulking works better in compression, hence if the bathtub or sink is caulked in its lowest position it will be sealed when filled and when empty. If it is sealed when empty, it is possible that the caulking will pull away from one of the objects when filled.

Caulking Chart