Friday, January 4, 2008

Bathtub Surround Backing‏

Q: I am in process of replacing my fixtures for my bathtub with shower. My house was built in the mid 70's. When we pulled the laminate sheet to get to the pipes the only thing we found behind it was drywall. I found some tiles that will be a nice for the walls as a new surround. I've gone to home depot to be told that I need to take out the drywall down to the studs and install another type of board. Can't remember the name of material. Is it necessary to remove the dry wall? The old surround did not go all the way to the ceiling and if hasn't seemed to bother the dry wall that is there.

A friend who does tiles seemed to think that I could just get the board and put it over it. I'm confused. Are there other methods can this be placed over the drywall that is already there?

A: The problem is usually the added thickness of the second layer of cement board or greenboard when you try to finish around the faucets and tub edges. If the added thickness is not a problem, then you can add the cement board or greenboard on top of the current drywall - providing that the current drywall is not rotting in any spots, if there is rot, mold or mildew you will be trapping it in the walls where it will grow!!! Find the studs and make sure the second layer of material is screwed through the first layer and into the studs, not just into the first layer of drywall.

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Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Rust In Tub‏

Q. What is the best way to remove rust from the bottom of a fiberglass tub? The surface is textured, so scrubbing it would be difficult.

A. Try a product called "The Works" its available at Target and I think Wal-Mart. You can also try 3 parts bleach to 1 part water.

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Stained Bathtub

Q. I have a really old tub that is stained and want to find out how to clean it.

I have scrubbed with chemicals and abrasives and bleached. I’ve even soaked in straight bleach.

Is there anything I can try? It’s a plastic type tub, not ceramic.

A. Plastic tubs have a very thin nonporous surface that in theory is stain proof (the same applies to porcelain). Once you apply abrasives and scouring pads you remove the protective layer and the stains permeate the plastic. Once that happens there is not much you can do to remove the stain - it would be like trying to remove stain from wood, you can't, all you can do is sand away the layer that is stained.

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Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Bathtub Installation

Q: I need some advice, I have a small bathroom that needs repairs. The shower tile is coming up among other things. I have decided to renovate the whole bathroom. My question is this, which would be easier to install a clawfoot style tub or a drop in tub? I have 4 feet 8 inches width and about 40 inches in depth. I have experience in tiling, plumbing and electrical work.

A: Both style tubs require the same basic effort - possibly a little more with a drop in as you have to build a frame. However, if the clawfoot tub is going to be in the middle of the space it means that the plumbing - hot and cold water - will be seen running to the faucet. Hence, in my opinion, you have to use chrome or nickel plated water piping and your pipe sweating abilities should be perfect.

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Bathtub Installation

Q: I need some advice, I have a small bathroom that needs repairs. The shower tile is coming up among other things. I have decided to renovate the whole bathroom. My question is this, which would be easier to install a clawfoot style tub or a drop in tub? I have 4 feet 8 inches width and about 40 inches in depth. I have experience in tiling, plumbing and electrical work.

A: Both style tubs require the same basic effort - possibly a little more with a drop in as you have to build a frame. However, if the clawfoot tub is going to be in the middle of the space it means that the plumbing - hot and cold water - will be seen running to the faucet. Hence, in my opinion, you have to use chrome or nickel plated water piping and your pipe sweating abilities should be perfect.

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