How Do I Repair A Dresser With A Marble Top?

Q: I have a 2'X4' dresser/credenza that has been in my husbands family for years. It is a darkly stained wood with a marble (I think) top on it. It looks like the previous owners have drilled some holes in the marble top and filled them with something white. I want this furniture piece to have a home behind my sofa. It is the perfect size for there but the top needs to be painted or refinished in some way (actually the whole piece needs re-finishing). Any ideas?

A: Marble is a natural stone and to my knowledge there is no way to fill a hole and not have it noticeable. That being said, my only suggestion would be to visit a marble company and talk to one of their experts. I would think that there are epoxy fills that might be able to be tinted to provide a reasonable match - of course, for you, they will always stand out!

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Asbestos Siding Repair

Q: I'm considering buying a home with asbestos siding. I have been told that I can remove it myself if I keep it wet, take my time, and don't break it as I remove it. But I have also been told that I can leave it and it won't be harmful as long as it's not disturbed. I was told I can paint it or I could side over it. I'd rather not have to remove it, and initially I'd like to just paint it until I decide what to do long-term. Is it true that I can just paint it and it won't be a health issue? A few of the pieces are already chipped--the house was probably built around 1912--but all the chipping looks to have happened quite a while ago.

A: This type of siding, also called "transite" or "asbestos slate" was pretty popular in the 1940's and 1950's. Someone probably put in on the house then as an attempt to make the house more maintenance free. I really like this siding because paint lasts a long time on it, and it is somewhat fire resistant. Some manufacturers are making fiber cement panels in matching profiles so people can use the new stuff to patch the old.

Back in 1994, when I bought my first house with this type of siding, I was told that I could remove it myself, but my local laws have changed, and now I would have to hire a licensed abatement contractor to remove it.

The stuff is really, really brittle. You will never, ever, get more than a couple of pieces off the house without breaking them.

A very important consideration is disposal - even if you are allowed to remove the siding yourself, very few dumps will accept asbestos.

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Repairing Holes In Drywall

Q: I'm renting a house where the previous tenants had an entertainment center bolted to plaster walls. When we removed the piece of furniture we discovered that they were secured by nickel-sized butterfly hook bolts. They left substantial holes in the wall that needed repairing.

We used wall patching (plaster sheets that you wet and apply, sand when dry). Unfortunately they are extremely noticeable because it's another layer on top of the wall.

Any suggestions on how we can make it more flush and less noticeable? I realize it'll never be perfect, but the condition it's in now concerns me.

A: If it is a large hole you need to install a piece of drywall and then use mudd to do the repair. Install a piece of wood (just wide enough to hold the piece of drywall), a couple of inches should be more than suitable on the backside of the wall, using screws through the front of the wall and attach the piece of drywall to it using screws.

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Chimney Repair

Q: I have a 1888 house that has a brick chimney. the previous owner had it "repaired" by putting a coat of stucco on top (without any metal lathe) a couple of years later, it is just chipping and falling off.

This is not a working fireplace. It is only used to vent my oil burner. So here's my question could i take down 3/4 of the top of the chimney and then install a chimney pot over the vent liner?

I'm unsure as to how tall the vent has to be, but for a non-used chimney, it seems a bit overkill to re-build a giant chimney to vent an oil burner.

A: There is a minimum height for furnace flues, I believe in your area it is 5', but please check with your building department. It is also relative to the position of the peak. It avoids getting a back draft. Providing you have enough height you can cut back the chimney. You also might want to consider a simple fix. Build a plywood box around the chimney, you can build it on the ground and slide it over the top or build it in sections and fasten it together on the roof. Place a 1 x 4 trim on the outside edge and use the 1 x 4 to make an X - all of this is only aesthetic, and paint with a quality exterior primer then paint. It is less expensive than hiring a mason and will hide the unsightly chimney.

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Broken Corners On An Old Vinyl Floor

Q. We have an apartment with vinyl floor tiles in the kitchen and hallway. For the most part they are stuck to the floor very well. It's just very dark and has probably been there since the 70's. Since it seems to be pretty secured down, for time and expense sake, I'd like to just go over it with newer vinyl squares. However, there are a few corners that have been broken off. I'm afraid the new tile will fall into those little holes and run the risk of breaking later as well. Is there a filler that you would recommend? I've always used a floor adhesive, even with the self stick tiles, but would the adhesive work to fill those areas so they're solid? Thanks for any advice.

A. You are correct that you must fill in the areas that are not level, as the new tiles will eventually try to fill the void.

Do not use adhesive as filler. Depending on what the sub-floor is, you can use a self-leveling concrete repair, spackling compound, or wood filler. Make sure that the compound you use is completely set, before laying the tiles - the compound will not set underneath tiles.

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