What Grout Should I Use For A Kitchen Backsplash

Q: I am planning on installing a backsplash in my kitchen. My wife has been searching for the perfect ceramic tiles and I have been busy investigating the supplies and tools that I will need. When it comes to the grout, I am confused. Some packages say that it has sand and others are sand free. Which one should I use?

A: Sand is added to grout for the same reason that an aggregate is added to concrete. It provides something for the grout to bond to. Grout is basically a type of adhesive similar to mortar. It is designed to fill and seal the spaces between any tile or natural stone. To answer your question, if the gap you are planning to use between tiles is less than an 1/8 inch you will want to use grout without sand. If the gap is larger than 1/8 inch you should use grout with sand. If it is an 1/8 inch, you can use either, but I would recommend that you stick with the non-sand grout.

Additional information on backsplash construction

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Fast Setting Thinset

Q: Probably the only "critical" part of our bath remodel is the tile around the toilet. How long will thin set take to set up enough to add grout, and then the grout to set up for the toilet? We only "need speed" for the toilet area. We do have access to another toilet, but it isn't convenient. The rest of the bathroom could be done at a bit more leisurely pace.

A: They make a fast setting mortar for this type of thing. You might be able to grout it in a couple of hours, and I don't see any reason that you couldn't set the bowl within an hour or two of grouting, if you really, really want to push it.

Standard mortar should set up overnight before grouting.

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Grout Between Porcelain Tiles‏

A. We had our bathroom done this spring in porcelain tiles with a brownish color grout in between the tiles. Recently my husband noticed that in a couple of places the grout is chipping and little bits of it are coming up. Should we have sealed it with something? The people who did this job for us didn't tell us to do anything to it. I wash it with vinegar and water and frankly, don't scrub it much at all. Should I be concerned about this flaking?

Q. You should be concerned about the flaking. Although sealing the grout will help keep it clean, stop it from turning color and free from mildew and mold it has nothing to do with flaking. Flaking is usually a result of one of three things:

The first is that the grout mixture was not mixed thoroughly and with enough water. The second is that the edges of the tiles were dirty when the grout was installed. Grout won't bind to dirt. The third is that the installer added grout on top of grout that had already begun to cure. Grout will not adhere properly to grout. If he did this, then it is the top layer that is probably flaking off.

Other than replacing the grout, which is a major exercise, I really don't have any suggestions for a fix. I would monitor the grout regularly, if pieces are chipping out, the holes should be immediately filled with a bathtub caulking to stop water from getting in behind the tiles. If it all starts to flake, then it will have to be replaced.

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Broken Corners On An Old Vinyl Floor

Q. We have an apartment with vinyl floor tiles in the kitchen and hallway. For the most part they are stuck to the floor very well. It's just very dark and has probably been there since the 70's. Since it seems to be pretty secured down, for time and expense sake, I'd like to just go over it with newer vinyl squares. However, there are a few corners that have been broken off. I'm afraid the new tile will fall into those little holes and run the risk of breaking later as well. Is there a filler that you would recommend? I've always used a floor adhesive, even with the self stick tiles, but would the adhesive work to fill those areas so they're solid? Thanks for any advice.

A. You are correct that you must fill in the areas that are not level, as the new tiles will eventually try to fill the void.

Do not use adhesive as filler. Depending on what the sub-floor is, you can use a self-leveling concrete repair, spackling compound, or wood filler. Make sure that the compound you use is completely set, before laying the tiles - the compound will not set underneath tiles.

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Drilling Ceramic & Porcelain Tile

Q: How do I drill a hole in ceramic tile?

A: If it is truly ceramic tile, you can use a standard masonry drill bit. Place a piece of duct tape over the area that you wish to drill (this will prevent the drill from slipping when you start and scratching the tile). Use a variable speed drill set for between 200 and 300 rpm. Dip the drill bit in cutting oil, if you do not have any cutting oil, then use a sponge to add water above the hole, allowing the water to trickle down into the hole, while you are drilling. This will reduce the friction, flush out the ceramic dust and cool the bit.

Do not apply a lot of pressure, allow the bit to do the work, if you apply to much pressure you will burn out the drill bit.

This will only work on ceramic tile. If you have porcelain or natural stone such as granite or marble you must use a diamond tipped drill bit.

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